Sunday, September 21, 2008

Adriatic Island Hopping Part 2: Kut-Vis-St. Klement

Ahhh yes...another day, another Ozujsko!!!
The night in Kut was a little rough on us, we woke up still swaying from the previous night. After breakfast, which consists of a cappuccino and using the restaurants facilities (as we wanted to use the pump flush in the boat toilet as little as possible). We then moved our boat across the harbor from Kut to Vis town in expectation of a more peaceful night (continue reading for actual night sleep). Once the boat was parked and all was settled, we grabbed some fruit and rented scooters at a local shop and hit the road to explore Vis for the day.
The scooters were awesome and we had great views all over the island.
Our first stop was Stiniva bay, an absolutely remarkable bay that is kindof like an hour glass, a strenuous walk down a cliff takes you to the white pebble beach with amazing clear water. One of the coolest spots this side of Koh Yao in Thailand.

We snorkeled and swam for a couple hours before re-boarding our scooters to Komiza on the other side of the island. Komiza is another beautiful town on Vis island that is frozen in the 1700s, one of the most amazing little stone villages we have ever seen. We walked around, grabbed some ice cream and then headed for Darko's.
On the way, we pulled over to see how the grapes were growing for this falls harvest. Looks like the 2008 vintage will be lovely!
Darko's was raved about on a couple websites I found when researching for the trip. It is literally a meal on his grape vine covered terrace, where EVERYTHING is homemade and local. The only thing not from the island is the fish! We started with some homemade appertifs, which got things off on the right foot. We had octopus for a starter, then seafood pasta, and for our main we had three different kinds of fish (forget the name) and calamari. It was all really good, but definitely not as good as Roki's (not nearly) and priced higher. We were shocked when we got the bill (€7 cookies (x2) for desert is shocking). It was all in all a great experience, but the price was a bit of a set back. Choose Roki's if deciding between the two. There is Darko in the background; he'd love Adamo of Montepulciano
That night we made it back to the boat and had a few bottles of wine over some cards and conversation with some Sweedish guys in the boat next to us. The boat on the other side of us as I mentioned earlier, was massive and the engine pumped fumes right into our porthole, it made us dizzy and gave huge headaches, but tis life at sea. After Ryan got done yelling at them, it made us feel a bit better, however, this night of sleep was not as good as expected, despite the calm seas.
The next morning we hit the seas early and found an amazing little cove to swim in and have lunch. Good snorkeling as well. It was a great day cap for Vis as we said goodbye to a most amazing island with even more amazing waters.
We crossed back over towards the coast to the Pakleni islands, which is just off the coast of Hvar and parked our boat in an amazing inlet on St. Klement. After getting our boat anchored (the hardest thing to do on the trip), we settled in and found probably my favorite part of the trip, Novak beach bar, literally a tiki hut set into the rocks in the bay, complete with bamboo bar, tree seating, and pure relaxation. We had a couple cold ones, enjoyed the sunset, and played cards all while soaking in complete tranquility. Ryan fell asleep in the tree he was sitting in at one point.
It was a great bar, but the relaxation quickly left us when we found our boat had shifted quite a bit while we were enjoying the scenery. Right at sunset, I jumped in and we got things figured out. After dinner on the boat and a glass of wine, relaxation set back in and we had a better night of sleep in the bay (albeit a little paranoid as we kept thinking the boat was moving).
Onto Hvar island - take two.

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