Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Adriatic Island Hopping: Split-Jelsa-Kut

Ahoy-

We set sail on the Gloria II on another perfect Croatian september morning, with nothing but blue waters and relaxation in front of us for the next 6 days!
Our first stop was on Brac island, where we dropped anchor in an idyllic cove and did some snorkeling. My God was the water clear. This cove also had a 2 mile hike that took you to monestary built into the cliffside. I was very beautiful, but we didn't consider brining money for admission and Erin wasn't wearing proper attire to get into a church-esque building (i.e. a bikini). Regardless, it was a cool hike that got us sweaty and ready for another dip before taking off toward Bol, and the famous Zlatni Rat beach, which is like a big hook of pebbles jetting out of the mainland. It was pretty crowded and we felt like a little more privacy, so we headed toward the north coast of Hvar island between Jelsa and Vrboska, where there was perfectly still waters and just a couple sunbathers. Following our second dip-stop, we headed to Jelsa, which is a beautiful little village complete with a couple little churches and lots of narrow alleyways between the stone buildings.
We successfully moored up the boat for the first time with minimal trouble, showered at the public beach, and walkted around the town for a bit before having a couple bottles of wine on the boat. After that, we walked to town and saw a concert in the 17th century town square with 9 or so accapella singers who did an amazing job. I literally think we were some of the only tourists there, as it seemed the entire town was there to watch the local men perform. It was definitely a unique experience. After the concert, we grabbed some good dinner on a cool stone terrace and called it a night.
The following morning on our way to Vis island, which is the furthest west island off of Croatia, we encountered what the sea is supposed to be like, with some seriously choppy waves. It was a little stressful getting over, but once we made it to Vis, we tucked around the island to more calm waters...the most beautiful I have seen.
So as any rational person would, we dropped anchor, had a dip and probably the best snorkeling of the trip and made lunch.
After lunch we headed toward Vis town; we knew it might be a little busy, so we arrived early...thank god they had lots of spaces! There were about 70 sail boats that occupied ALL of Vis harbor, which relegated us to the other side of the bay, in Kut, where the water was a bit more unprotected to the winds of that day. At least we got a spot! Below is us docked in front of Kut town, another picture perfect fishing village. The island was acutally frozen in time from the 1800's because it was a British Naval base until 1989, when they finally opened the island to outsiders. It made the ambiance of the island that much more magical.
I then made a call to Oliver Roki, owner of Roki's vineyard, who also hosts parties to his vineyard for AMAZING meals. Oliver, the owner, picked us up in his van next to the Kut police station and drove us to the restaurant. We were the last ones there (there were probably 5 groups of 6 or more people), so he showed us around the property, let us peek at our Peka (traditional way of cooking Croatian food), and gave us a tasting to wet our appetite. The cellar was built way way back when his great great grandfather began to make wine (nobody knows when it was built). The ambiance for the dinner was sooo perfect. We sat outside on his terrace, had a couple bottles of wine and without question, the best meal on the trip. We were licking the bones of the Gunnard we destroyed! Another great day to the trip had filled our memories and our bellies!
PekaGunnard
Gunnard carcus!

1 comment:

  1. That water is amazing! Reminds me of cliff-jumping on the islands near Cannes.

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