Friday, January 02, 2009

The X-Mas Markets of Europe - Part Four - Salzburg & Kitzbuhel

On the 23rd, we left Regensburg for Salzburg. After our directions sent us down a pedestrian street through Salzburg (by Borgie and Dano's old digs I believe), we made it safely to our hotel, which was perched high above the city in the mountains, the Romantik Hotel Gersberg Alm. We knew they had a restaurant, but didn't realise it would be the best meals of our trip. We opted to stay in the hotel that night to rest and had dinner there, Erin had a nice fish and I had baby deer (definitely a first and probably a last - PETA would've had a field day with the game on the menu). Our room had sprawling views of Salzburg and you could see the fortress from the entryway to the hotel.The following morning we trekked into town after returning our rental and explored the final Christmas market of the long Christmas Market tour 2008. The Salzburg market was really nice, with two main markets on either side of the Dom (Cathedral), but after seeing so many markets, we were not wowed by this one. We'll have a post in the next couple months announcing our favorite market given a series of categories!

We grabbed a tea, wandered around town some more, got an orament (we have made it a tradition to get an ornament in each (major) city we visit during our European adventure - we'll have an ecletic tree come next year) and stopped at the market for an unusual Christmas dinner of cheese, olives, bread and meats...more of an Italian picnic. We then went back to the market for some punsch and sausages before heading into the Dom for Christmas mass. Despite being in German, we managed to attempt to sing (mumble) along to all the songs. It was a really nice service and a beautiful church.
We then took a taxi back to our place and had our dinner before joining all the hotel guests in Christmas carols (Finnish, German, and English songs - many firsts for us) and mulled wine and cookies. We then decorated the closest thing we had to a christmas tree, the fake flower in our room. Regardless, it was nice to decorate a "tree".
We were a little disappointed going to bed as there was no snow on the ground on Christmas eve (proably hard for our friends back home to believe given the snow in the Minny these days), however, on Christmas morning, we woke up to about 2 inches of white stuff, which definitely made Christmas day much more interesting, as we went for a long walk in the white mountains!

After another visit to the wellness center and hanging out all Christmas day, we had another great dinner which capped off our Christmas in Salzburg.

We jumped on the train the next morning to Kitzbuhel, which is known as the ski place for the non-skiiers in Europe. People are a little more focused on the type of fur boots and coats they wear to a particular bar after skiing (apres-ski) than the volume of snow that dumped on them the night before. Nevertheless, we wanted to experience the hype.
Thankfully the days we had skiing were the best the resort had all year, as it snowed about 5 inches the day we arrived. The town was VERY romantic, with the old town home to a beautiful pedestrian street with colorful buildings ranging from 200-500 years old. It was a truely perfect European alpine village. Our resort, the Haselberger Hotel was right at the base of the lift in a perfect location for exploring the town and taking in the apres-ski scene. We skiied for 3 days and spent one day wandering the town. The snow and runs do not even begin to compare with those in the Rockies, we are spoiled back home; however, the mountain restaurants (over 50 on the mountain) and bars are what make the resort special. We had lunch at 3 amazing places that are complete with old wood tables, fires, german beer, mulled wine, and relaxation. We wish we could take this vibe back to the rockies with us! After skiing each day, everyone hauled their skis to the nearest loudest bar to sip on mulled wine and show off their fur headbands (they actually exist...scary)! Our favorite place was the Strampel, a 200 year old pub with great apres-ski atmosphere. The Haselberger hotel is run by the Haselberger couple who have ran the hotel for multiple generations. The hotel was opened by Mr. Haselberger's father, who left it to them. It is one of the true gem's of the city, not spolied by the wealth that has came to Kitzbuhel in the last 20 years which shows in all the shishi stores and hotels/resorts. Unfortunately, the Haselberger's are retiring and their children are opting not to take over; thus, they are selling to the hotel next door, a 4 star hotel called the Kasierhof (a Best Western). We consider ourselves very fortunate to have been blessed with such great hospitality by the Haselberger's, who are as kind as they come. It is truely the end of an era in Kitzbuhel. It was the perfect hotel to end an amazing trip with! Happy new year to all!

Marking a Milestone!

2008 ReCap
View 2008 Recap Slideshow


As we say goodbye to 2008, Lou and I cannot help but celebrate the 100th post on our blog, by looking back at what a life-changing year it has been. Living abroad has been a whirlwind adventure, introducing us to new jobs, friends and way of life. It has been both a challenging and rewarding experience as we immerse ourselves, if ever so briefly, in countries and cultures so different from our own. From a family-owned rubber operation in Koh Yao Noi, Thailand to the Jemma El Efna in Marrakesh, Morocco, we have been enamored and intrigued by the colourful people we have encountered, the unique foods we have tasted and one-of-a-kind experiences shared together in our first year of marriage.


We know that some people hate looking at our blog (Linsey - you are envious of our trips, but we are more envious of your return to student life and naps!) but hope others appreciate the glimpse our photos and blurbs provide into another side of the globe. Living abroad, we have picked up so many new hobbies (the true way to see a city is by pounding the unbeaten pavement), interests (I have drug Lou to every foreign food market and tasted the best dragon fruit, manchego, olives and mulled wine available) and at the same time, an appreciation for the convenience and choices provided in America. We have learned so much living abroad about ourselves and the different places and people around us that sometimes, it is a shame that we cannot share more of our exploration via photos.

Here are some of impromtu photo highlights of 2008:
As our Christmas trip to Bavaria lasted close to two weeks, we decided to mark the end of the year, in stark contrast to the way we spent most of it with no flights or luggage, but simply us at home with a home-cooked meal and and a nice bottle of champagne.

The fire definitely still burns in us to travel and see the world during 2009 and throughout the rest of our lives, but it is also very exciting for us that after four years of living in Washington, D.C. and over a year in Dublin, we will eventually find our way home to Minneapolis. We look forward to becoming a more regular fixture in our families and friends lives, becoming home owners and maybe even owning a microwave again.


We hope that everyone is blessed with much joie de vivre in 2009!

Thursday, January 01, 2009

The X-Mas Markets of Europe - Part Three - Munich & Regensburg

We had been looking forward to our trip to Bavaria for so many months and were relieved when our Christmas holiday finally arrived on December 19th.  It was the longest holiday during our time in Europe and it came and went quickly along with the rest of 2008. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to All! What was planned as the ultimate Xmas market and beer tour of Bavaria didn't quite turn out as planned, as Erin and I both got pretty sick in Munich, eventually getting diagnosed with Bronchitis by none other than Dr. Beer in Regensburg 5 days into the trip.

The trip began by checking into our Pension and picking up a glass of mulled wine on the way to dinner at Anchens Am Dom, a famous brewery/monastery that has a resturant in Munich, an easy alternative to making the pilgrimage to the mountain top town. Good food, amazing beer. The next morning it was off to the xmas market...we were hoping for snow in Munich, to unfortunately find cold rain and wind....not good for Erin who at this point was getting pretty sick, but being a great sport! The main Munich market in Marienplatz was great, filled with exclusively christmas ornaments and decorations; we quickly found out where all our Christmas traditions originated in Minnesota. After getting a couple ornaments and meeting Strauss, who planned two nights in Munich on his way to Egypt for the holiday, we had a lunch of soup and a beer (for me), tea for Erin, then made our way to Munich's Residenz, where the royal family lived for hundreds of years dating to the 1508, with the building dating back to 1385. We checked out another Christmas market in the courtyard of the Residenz and had a potato latkes in honor of Strauss, as he humored us by tagging along at all the Christmas markets. That night we ate at Paulaner's big beer hall/eatery and had a beer at Augustiner Keller in the basement (like 60 feet below ground) brewery. Erin was a tropper as she was at the height of her illness while we had a beer here (and as I began to deteriorate).
The following day we wandered around again, but only in the morning to get drugs and then it was back to bed until 3:30 for Erin and I. However, we managed to make it to the Hofbrahaus for a couple beers (even though I was sick, I couldn't pass up un mas after an initial tea). On the way to dinner, we stumbled upon yet another seriously cute xmas market that was exclusively for nativity purchases (along with the usual gluwein and pretzels that everyone was eating and drinking). Munich was great despite not being able to do the complete beer hall experience....but to our credit we made it to the Hofbrahaus, an Ayinger, an Augustiner, a Paulaner, and the Anchen's beer halls; not a bad showing. We were able to parttake in the amazing Christmas markets though!!

The next day after a slight complication with our rental, we departed from Munich airport to Regensburg via Landshut. Landshut was a picturesque town straight out of a fairy-tale, with pastel medieval buildings surrounding cobblestone streets. We made a quick tour through town and then arrived in Regensburg to an even more picturesque town, one of the coolest and most historic we have experienced in our time here, complete with colorful buildings and several Christmas markets.
We checked into our hotel and grabbed a tea and set out to check out the markets. It was such a great vibe with all the locals having gluwine and chestnuts beneath the medieval church. We were very sad to not parttake in the banter:-(.

We stayed at the Petit Orphee hotel, right in the center of town. It was only €100 a night but included gourmet breakfast and wine and water in the room upon arrival. It should be the only option when considering accommodation in Regensburg. That night we were fortunate to get a reservation at the restaurant managed by the hotel, also the best restaurant in town. It was bistro-french and didn't disappoint.
After dinner, we wandered around town some more and to another cute market that was focused more on arts and crafts, kids stuff, and music. There was a cute merry-go-round made of wood that was just like the one we say in Riga last year. There was also mini-bowling for the little ones. The next morning we woke up to a great view, had breakfast, and then made it to a hospital in the old town, seeing Dr. Beer and getting some much needed meds. Following the hospital, we wandered around the markets some more and to some shops.
We went to a home store and found Erin's Christmas present, which was wrapped in the store and hauled to the post-office. As you can see below, it was too big to put in an envelope, so we had to send the package to Ireland to be able to ship it home!

We eventually made it out of Regensburg and it was across the border to Salzburg for one last market and our Christmas celebration!