Friday, January 02, 2009

The X-Mas Markets of Europe - Part Four - Salzburg & Kitzbuhel

On the 23rd, we left Regensburg for Salzburg. After our directions sent us down a pedestrian street through Salzburg (by Borgie and Dano's old digs I believe), we made it safely to our hotel, which was perched high above the city in the mountains, the Romantik Hotel Gersberg Alm. We knew they had a restaurant, but didn't realise it would be the best meals of our trip. We opted to stay in the hotel that night to rest and had dinner there, Erin had a nice fish and I had baby deer (definitely a first and probably a last - PETA would've had a field day with the game on the menu). Our room had sprawling views of Salzburg and you could see the fortress from the entryway to the hotel.The following morning we trekked into town after returning our rental and explored the final Christmas market of the long Christmas Market tour 2008. The Salzburg market was really nice, with two main markets on either side of the Dom (Cathedral), but after seeing so many markets, we were not wowed by this one. We'll have a post in the next couple months announcing our favorite market given a series of categories!

We grabbed a tea, wandered around town some more, got an orament (we have made it a tradition to get an ornament in each (major) city we visit during our European adventure - we'll have an ecletic tree come next year) and stopped at the market for an unusual Christmas dinner of cheese, olives, bread and meats...more of an Italian picnic. We then went back to the market for some punsch and sausages before heading into the Dom for Christmas mass. Despite being in German, we managed to attempt to sing (mumble) along to all the songs. It was a really nice service and a beautiful church.
We then took a taxi back to our place and had our dinner before joining all the hotel guests in Christmas carols (Finnish, German, and English songs - many firsts for us) and mulled wine and cookies. We then decorated the closest thing we had to a christmas tree, the fake flower in our room. Regardless, it was nice to decorate a "tree".
We were a little disappointed going to bed as there was no snow on the ground on Christmas eve (proably hard for our friends back home to believe given the snow in the Minny these days), however, on Christmas morning, we woke up to about 2 inches of white stuff, which definitely made Christmas day much more interesting, as we went for a long walk in the white mountains!

After another visit to the wellness center and hanging out all Christmas day, we had another great dinner which capped off our Christmas in Salzburg.

We jumped on the train the next morning to Kitzbuhel, which is known as the ski place for the non-skiiers in Europe. People are a little more focused on the type of fur boots and coats they wear to a particular bar after skiing (apres-ski) than the volume of snow that dumped on them the night before. Nevertheless, we wanted to experience the hype.
Thankfully the days we had skiing were the best the resort had all year, as it snowed about 5 inches the day we arrived. The town was VERY romantic, with the old town home to a beautiful pedestrian street with colorful buildings ranging from 200-500 years old. It was a truely perfect European alpine village. Our resort, the Haselberger Hotel was right at the base of the lift in a perfect location for exploring the town and taking in the apres-ski scene. We skiied for 3 days and spent one day wandering the town. The snow and runs do not even begin to compare with those in the Rockies, we are spoiled back home; however, the mountain restaurants (over 50 on the mountain) and bars are what make the resort special. We had lunch at 3 amazing places that are complete with old wood tables, fires, german beer, mulled wine, and relaxation. We wish we could take this vibe back to the rockies with us! After skiing each day, everyone hauled their skis to the nearest loudest bar to sip on mulled wine and show off their fur headbands (they actually exist...scary)! Our favorite place was the Strampel, a 200 year old pub with great apres-ski atmosphere. The Haselberger hotel is run by the Haselberger couple who have ran the hotel for multiple generations. The hotel was opened by Mr. Haselberger's father, who left it to them. It is one of the true gem's of the city, not spolied by the wealth that has came to Kitzbuhel in the last 20 years which shows in all the shishi stores and hotels/resorts. Unfortunately, the Haselberger's are retiring and their children are opting not to take over; thus, they are selling to the hotel next door, a 4 star hotel called the Kasierhof (a Best Western). We consider ourselves very fortunate to have been blessed with such great hospitality by the Haselberger's, who are as kind as they come. It is truely the end of an era in Kitzbuhel. It was the perfect hotel to end an amazing trip with! Happy new year to all!

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