Picnics in the park

With so many great spots in London to picnic in, one would have a hard time to have to travel far to enjoy one of the great parks in the city to picnic in. As the weather has gotten better, Erin and I had two recent weeks with great weather, allowing for some great picnics. We did everything to make these picnics good except one thing, we forgot suncscreen.

Primrose Hill
This is a great spot to have a meal, some Pimm's or bubbly and let the hours go by while overlooking the city. Primrose Hill is very central, just off the north part of Regent's Park. We grabbed some fruit, bread and cheese, a bottle of champagne and our shades and headed for the park, meeting Desie, Sam Kate and Zeus.

This park is a little smaller than most but can easily accommodate hundreds of people and as mentioned, affords amazing views of the city.

Hyde Park
The following weekend we went to Hyde Park. One of the city's biggest and most central parks, home to the weekly American football game, acres of trees and paths and a public lawn bowling space that is perfect for an after-picnic match!

We went with Cam and Emily, had lunch in the Diana memorial park just south of the Serpentine, then headed for the lawn bowling pitch. Its really cheap to do at only £6 an hour to rent the balls. I highly recommend this activity for visitors and locals alike. You can also rent the entire pitch for a party or work function. I think Erin's money pasta salad prompted Cam to pop the question!

After work watering holes for Number One Dave Petersen

In an attempt to continue to explore new parts of the city, Erin and I have recently taken advantage of the greatly improved weather around the city to have a couple after work pints. One of the joys about England (and Ireland for that matter) that separate it from the US is the pub culture, where many people go from work for a pint or two, even on a Wednesday or Thursday night. Logistically, its much easier than in Minneapolis because people aren't driving, so I partially understand its hard to replicate in the US. One that the US doesn't allow though is on a nice day, allowing the patrons to spill onto the sidewalk to enjoy their beer while catching some rays, giving the vibe at the pubs great character!

I am also compiling this list for some good options for visitors coming to London to have some good local pubs up their sleeves, so hopefully this is helpful, Number One.

There are countless areas and pubs to do this in London. Erin and I recently have ventured out to the following areas for a couple drinks:

Farringdon
There are a couple unbelievable post work spots here, one worth mentioning for the crowd and one for the beer. First is the Crown Tavern, which is on a square that has a massive area for spillage. Tons of people, but the wait in line for a good range of Czech beers is rewarded by a great vibe.

Also in this area is the Jerusalem tavern (closed on weekends). While its situation doesn't benefit from the sunlight, the beer (and food I hear) are great. The Jerusalem tavern is in a really old building in one of the oldest parts of London and is the only pub in London serving the quality St. Peter's beer on tap. If you are a fan of good beers, you should check this place out.

Pimlico
Another beer lovers mecca, the Cask Pub and Kitchen, has perhaps the most appealing range of beers in the country. The beer bible they have for drinkers to browse has a great description of all the breweries and beers it has on offer, well over 200, with another 20 or so on tap. It is right on a corner and allows for great streetside drinking after a long days work. Most of the rare beers are Belgian or US beers, so there is no shortage of highly hoppy options.

Notting Hill
Perhaps our favorite pub in England, the Windsor Castle is also a great outdoor drinking locale (although its hard to want to sit outside when the character inside is so great). They have a massive beer garden but on nice days that packs up quickly, forcing revellers to the streets in front of the pub, making it a great lively atmosphere. Also close to the Windsor Castle is the Hillgate Pub, which is a local favorite as well.

South Kensington / Gloucester Road
Perhaps the best Mews Pub in London (with stiff competition from the Grenider in Belgravia) is the Queens Arms (30 Queensgate Mews, SW7 5QL). Situated in a quiet Mews, it allows for a large, boisterous post work crowd. This place is pretty hard to find so you don't see too many tourists with a Nikon in one hand and a pint of good ale in the other. The selection on tap here is very good with lots of independent breweries on offer. Its pretty close to the Natural History Museum, Royal Albert Hall and Hyde Park.

London Bridge
Other areas to outdoor pub include London bridge, where the many of the city's oldest and best pubs can be found. The Rake has the best selection south of the river (they also own Utobeer in the Borough market, which is one of the best off-sale beer grocers in the city) and always has rare, powerful tap options, including BrewDog and Stone. There is also the George Inn, which was formerly a coaching inn and has been a pub for several hundred years. The rake is connected to the Borough market so it makes a great post work Thursday or Friday spot. The George Inn has a massive patio so you can always get some fresh air at the George.

Mayfair
Great spots here include the Punch Bowl, the Coach and Horses, the Guinea and several pubs in and around the Shepherds Market area close to the Green Park tube. All of these places are very central and great for a post work (or post touring) beer.

But my award for the best post work pub goes to none other than my favorite pub in Dublin, Kehoe's. Nothing beats the outdoor scene on a Thursday at 6pm on a sunny evening....

Visitors abound

Its been pretty quiet on the England front in February and March, with perpetually dreary weather, dark days and only thoughts of a warm and sunny summer getting us through the English winter. This explains the lack of blog posts lately. However, as the dark days have started to brighten, so has our desire to get out and explore. Along with the market we went to a couple weeks ago with Pramit, we've had some visitors, which has been good for the mind and soul (just not the wallet). 

Recently, Betchkov and Adrienne visited our place for a little over a week, enjoying two weekends with us and taking in Paris during the week, while we worked (its not fun to imagine your friends frolicking around Paris while stuck in a cube). 

During the weekends they were here we took them to Notting Hill market and showed them our local(s) (The Prince of Wales and the Windsor Castle), and even made it to Aladdin for a meal on Brick Lane. 

We also had a really nice night out in Shepherd's Bush at Alounak followed by pints at Defectors. Another night we took on Soho, eating at a very popular Venetian small plates restaurant called Polpo, which I highly recommend. 

We also went to El Camino and then to Sketch during one of our nights after a meal in China town. Sketch is an interesting club, but given the most interesting part about it is the bathrooms, don't hold your breath.

About a month earlier, Ross was in town en route from Minneapolis to Italy to Shanghai (weird - but you cannot question Ross' travel plans, you just have to go with the flow). We showed him a good night out in Soho as well, following a dinner at Rocket in Mayfair. Rocket is another affordable but stylish Italian spot that has killer pizza and calzones and a good wine list. We also checked out the Borough market for a famous Chorizo sandwich and hit a couple pubs up (of course). 

Having friends come out was a terrific distraction from the long winter/early spring. It was good to talk about the crazy college days and plan for the times to come! Also helped us pass the time until our next trip, which is only a few weeks away!!

Broadway Market and L'Entrecote

When walking to work, I always admire the various points around of Big Ben, Parliament and if you are back far enough, add the towers of Westminster Abbey...as you can see its quite a beautiful sight, particularly against sunset.

Two weekends ago we fulfilled an 18 month desire to go to Relais de Venise or L'Entrecote. No menu aside of desert and drinks, which adds to the ambiance, making it a unique experience. The only thing on the menu for starters and mains is salad and steaks. When you order the only question is 'how would you like your steaks done monsieur?' The don't even have butter for the baquettes! They are famous for their special sauce, which we identified the secret ingredient as curry (but we could be wrong). Kate, Stuart, Erin and I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. It is pretty affordable and they don't take reservations, which adds to the experience a bit more (queuing outside). If you arrive early enough, check out the old pub next door for a pre-dinner beer (which they don't serve at L'Entrecote - just make sure the women hold your place in line:-). The experience is definitely worth the effort/wait.

This weekend we made our way to Angel tube stop and had a nice 30 minute walk along the canal with Pramit to the Broadway Market. The market itself is as unique as the others in London, adding a much more local vibe than the likes of Borough and Notting Hill.

 It is lined with coffee shops, cafes, antique stores, even an eel monger. While not the biggest nor most highly regarded, its a great spot to spend a Saturday morning/afternoon.

Happy marketeering!!!

Day Trip: Royal Standard of England Pub

If you find yourself in London on a cloudy Saturday morning and aren't sure what to do. Here's a hint...try the Royal Standard of England. This pub, which won pub of the year in 2009, dates back some 900 years. The interior suggests that is a true statement. 

Erin, Kate, Stuart and I headed out on the Metropolitan line until the end, where you take a 20 minute, 20 pound cab to the pub. About 75-90 minute trip in all, but it removes you from the hustle and bustle of the city. Alternatively, if its not closed the Marylebone train line has a train that drops you off about 1.5 miles from the pub at Beaconsfield station. 

The pub is sooo great, I think there are 3-4 fireplaces, more beams than you can count, a reliable food selection, and it allows dogs, which is a plus for the Stu and Kate. The bar oozes Old English Pub, which is why Stu's shirt complemented it perfectly. 

Our table was in a neat little nook that allowed for several hours of chillin with a real ale and nibblin on some treats. The beer selections at the pub are also great, with a handful of hand-pumped ales, some local regular taps, as well as a good selection of belgians. Its a great destination pub and restaurant that helps fulfill a great day in England!!

Brewery Tour: The Kernel

While awhile outdated, a late October brewery tour is a must-report. Especially a tasting at the little engine that could, The Kernel, tucked away in Southeast London underneath the railroad tracks just east of London Bridge station. Please visit the website, especially if you are in London. They pull open the garage door every Saturday morning and the gentlemen that share the space with him, a cheese maker and a parmesean and cured meats specialist, also have their goods available for tasting and buying. 

 This place is the perfect, low-key alternative to the Borough Market, especially with other nearby speciality stores, you can get away from tourists snapping photos and into some relaxed Saturday morning/afternoon marketeering!

 The Kernel offers about 6 different beers, most of which change regularly. When we were there the range included two different IPAs, two Pale Ales, an Amber Ale, and two Porters.

 While I do enjoy the traditional english ales and love the history surrounding them, its exciting to see a new culture of British brewing that are challenging the norm in the UK and venturing to new territories. Another example of this is BrewDog, a Scottish brewery that has great marketing and more importantly, great beer that is aiming to redefine the British beer scene....I think both them and the Kernel are onto something! Try for yourself!

Day Trip: Richmond Park; Erin's B-day Dinner

A couple weeks ago, Erin and I made our way to the 3rd ring suburbs, specifically to Richmond, a villagy-like suburb reachable either on overground or underground (district line), about a 25 minute journey from South Kensington. Upon arriving at the station, you are greeted by a cheerful high street bustling with commerce, and even a little Irish atmosphere!

We stopped at our go-to coffee spot, Paul, where we picked up a baquette for lunch along with our coffee, then meandered around the small sidesteets and down to the river Thames, which leads past Richmond from London on its way to Hampton Court. You could easily do a bike trip from central london along the Thames path to Richmond, alternatively, you could hire a boat!

After slowly making our way to Richmond park, which is said to be the largest in London, complete with its own nature reserve, we met a few Red Deer, which have amazing antlers! We added this one for Erin's dad...trigger happy anyone? You can see why Henry VIII used Richmond as his hunting grounds, given its proximity to Hampton Court!

After standing face-to-face with the red deer, we headed deeper into the reserve portion of the park and found this fallen tree, which had a perfect natural table in the middle. T'was the perfect picnic spot!

After getting our fill of bread, fruit and cheese, we wandered the many trails of the park, eventually running into this tree, which looks like it came out of The Lord of the Rings or Harry Potter. I was waiting for it to come alive while Erin was INSIDE of it!!! One of the cool features of the park were all the old, half-dying trees.

We wandered aimlessly around the park for another hour or so before heading back towards the town. There are many many pubs around here so if you want are looking for a great pub crawl location outside of central london, you have found one close to the city, but with lots of picnic and walking opportunities.  The pub we stopped at is called the Roebuck. The pub itself it great but perhaps its best quality is the view across the road where patrons are allowed to hang out with their beers. The barmaid even keeps a rack for one to drop their empty into! I had a Purity Mad Goose, which is one of my go-to English ales. 

The day before the trip to Richmond we went to a long-awaited dinner spot, the River Cafe. This restaurant, which I believe either has or had a Michelin star, is absoutely amazing. This is where Jamie Oliver started his career, and immediately upon entering you can see that the influence of this place has been embraced by Mr. Oliver (who just had his 4th child, Buddy Bear:) and still shows in his cooking, using lots of quality, fresh ingredients. The restaurant was quite pricey, but for a special occasion in London, look no further!

I forget every dish we had, but I distinctly remember the harmoneous combination of flavors in my starter, where the mint and fresh italian black figs with parma ham created an explosion of  tastes that actually caused me to make sound effects once I finished my first bite; like the 4th of July or Rollie's sound effects when he describes how he makes smores. I suggest you try it yourself! Call in advance about 3 months to get a table, the restaurant is near the Hammersmith tube stop on the District or Picadilly line. I should also mention the wine list, which features only italian wines, but an extensive selection. We had a bottle of Badia a Coltibuono, which is where James, Marissa, Erin and I stayed on our trip to Italy (Tuscany) in summer '08.

Numero tres

We recently celebrated our 3rd anniversary with dinner on the canal in Maida Vale - a little victorian neighborhood in west London.  Its little known that there's a canal system in London.  This one - known as little Venice - wraps around various parts of the city and is used for leisure cruising and scenic walks.

There are a hundred or so houseboats that border the canal.  A trendy, commute-free way to live in the middle of London or in our case, a peaceful place for dinner.

I'd heard of a pop-up store, but a pop-up restaurant? The Summerhouse is up now and will be open until mid-October.  I loved the Nantucket vibe with white-washed walls.  When the weather is goods, its open air vibe makes a perfect setting for a romantic, yet casual meal.  

Brick Lane and bowling

Each neighborhood in London has its own split personality -  a mix of history and modern culture.  All you need to do is select a different Tube stop and you exit,  feeling like you're in a completely different place. Washington, D.C. too, reminds me of this.  Smithsonian and you're at the heart of the national mall.  Old Town with its colonial charm. Adam's Morgan and your senses are overwhelmed - colourful restaurants, grungy graffiti and jumbo pizza slice smells.  Brick Lane in London takes this sensory overload one step further.  Unfortunately, this picture doesn't do it justice but it is one long neighborhood that winds through various bric-a-brac markets selling curries and odd collectables, upmarket Spitalfields and ends in the middle of London's Bangladeshi community. Jack the Ripper also started his conquests here.

The area is starting to become more developed, but remains one of the most colourful and vibrant parts of the city.  This is a perfect spot to bring someone that has seen Big Ben and Portobello Road and is looking for a glimpse into life in the city.  Lucky for me, Linsey, who studied abroad in London during university and came over for a visit, was up for such an adventure. Where else could you have a cocktail on an old school bus, view graffiti by Banksy and complete the evening with a traditional Indian spread? We dined at Aladdin on a recommendation.  There were no flying carpets but the food was unbeatable and fun for the price. 90% of London's Indian restaurants are Bangladeshi.

Liverpool Street and Aldgate East are the closest Tube stations.  The area is liveliest on Sundays, when the Spitalfield market is on.  During Linsey's visit, we wanted to blend new with old and spent a leisurely Saturday afternoon lawn bowling in Hyde Park.  Much like bocci ball, its a competitive but undeniably social sport. And especially when its a geriatric costume party.

The day was capped off with another English past time - a picnic. And lucky for us, there were no archaic open bottle restrictions to stop us from enjoying the warm weather and a glass of bubbly.

Day Trip: Canterbury, England

A few weekends ago, Erin and I were craving an excursion outside the city. With an abundance of day trip options, we wanted to choose wisely as free Saturdays cannot be taken lightly. We opted for a trip to the Southeast of England, specifically Canterbury. Much of medieval England history was written here, as Canterbury Cathedral was the head of the Catholic Church in England for centuries and is where the Archbishop sits today. 

Canterbury’s history dates back to prehistoric times, with a significant roman influence.  Christianity came to England in the sixth century where St. Augustine set up the Cathedral and it has since been central city in England. There are several monasteries, churches, an old priory, an inn dating to the 13^th century, and lots of great historical buildings and streets. 

Getting to Canterbury from central London is about as easy as getting lost in the medieval streets of the town itself. Trains depart from St. Pancras station every half hour on the Southeastern train link and take about an hour, with part of the journey being on the new high speed track. A round trip day ticket costs about $40.

The town is two blocks (5 minutes) from the old town, which still has a respectable portion of its medieval walls in tact. We spend the first 90 minutes just getting our bearings, checking out the old inn/hospital/chapel on the main street, where the gentleman working at the desk was extremely well versed on the history of the town.

After walking around some more, we worked up an appetite and got a picnic at a cute little café/gourmet foods shop and had a nice picnic along the river surrounding the old town. 

After lunch, we made our way to the famous cathedral, which is still where the head of the Church of England sits today. The church became a site of pilgrimage when King Henry II murdered his old friend Thomas Becket in the church after power struggles came to a head. 

I strongly encourage reading a non-fiction book by Ken Follett titled Pilars of the Earth, which focuses on the struggles between the Church, State, and people and culminates around the time of the famous murder. There is even stain glass depicting the famous murder. 

The church was impressive, larger than many, smaller than York Minster Cathedral, but without question the centerpiece of the town.

Following the church, we wandered around a little more before catching the 3:30pm train, capping off a highly successful and stress free day trip.