The Good Life in the Tuscan Hill Towns

Casa Porciatti - Radda in Chianti

Now that we've shown the sightseeing side of Tuscany, let us share our gastronomic experiences with you. This is the true way to learn about and experience Tuscany...through its food and wine. When we get back to the Minny, we'll share more stories and pics, but this will give you a tasting (or Sangiovese of course) of our time in Chianti, Montalcino, and Montepulciano, and the food and wine that was enjoyed with it. The morning after Siena really started the wine portion of the tour (note we have already tried probably 15 wines at this point, and craved more). We made it to Montalcino at around 9am on Italy's independence day.

Montalcino

A lot of things were closed, but we had faith the wine industry wouldn't close on a day in early June! Montalcino is an amaing hill top town that boasts more wine stores than pubs in Dingle (see post from January titled Wandering the West). We had some really really good wines while wandering the medieval streets, and even wandered into a couple churches. After picking up a bottle for the evening, we headed to Pienza, about half way between M&M, giving a chesse rather than wine heaven.

Despite the downpour in Pienza, we managed a terrace lunch and 3 cheese tastings. Pienza is famous for its Pecorino cheese, where it all began. We got a block of Pecorino cheese infused with Truffels, it was amazing. Its cool because the more aged the Pecorino is, the harder it is. So never say no, there is a pecorino out there for every tongue.
Pienza was a great little town, the main street was great and the path along the walled town provided for breathtaking views. Pienza is also home to Pope Pius, from who the town bears its name. Off to Montepulciano, our favorite town of the glutenous tour of Southern Tuscany. Pienza

Its important to note that when looking for the postcard pics of the Cyprus trees, wheat fields, and rolling hills scattered with vineyards, this area is the place. The Chianti region is amazing, but with more trees, more hills, and probably more vineyards and olive groves. But don't mistake me, vineyards and olive groves are EVERYWHERE!

Castello di Verrazzano Vineyards and Olive Groves

Montepulciano was amazing, despite the rain. We started off the equally as impressive walled hill town by visiting Adamo at Contucci vineyards, the only vineyard that ages its wines inside of the walled town (literally inside, with cellars dug into the rock in the hill town. After the self guided tour, the friendly Adamo lets the wine flow. If you follow Ricardo Stevacchio (Rick Steves...see last post for explanation), he loves this guy, and for good reason!! He does love the ladies, and will expect you to know him because he is famous in America!! He even signed my page in Rick Steves with his photo in it. He and his winery associate were both great and very very fun. 10 tastings later, we all had to go into the rain to sober up!

Poliziano is another winery serving samples there. Absolutely amazing wines. We bought a Vino Noble di Montepulcino (the top wine from the region) to share with dinner! Following that we went to another place that is seriously like the funny farm, serving everything from wines, to chesses, to cured meat, basalmic and other sauces. The place was sooo good, we got a block of soft Pecorino that was the best cheese I have ever had.

The following day we took Mr. Betch's advice and booked a tour at Castello di Verrazzano. http://www.verrazzano.com/ I suggest anybody touring tuscany to visit this place. It is even accessable for a day trip from Florence. The tour guide, Gino, was flawless; talking more about the love and spirit of the wine than the composition, adding about the amazing history of the vineyard. After touring the grounds and cellars, we sat down to a 5 course meal that served up 4 different reds, a vin santo dessert wine, and grappa. We had to walk it off for a bit before heading back home. I wanted to take this home, but it slightly surpassed the liquid restrictions for carry-ons.

In Radda in Chianti, we stopped in an amazing butcher shop for about 50 slices of perfect Italian meats for about €7, then at the Coop for everything else. It was probably the second best meal on the trip (after the Abbey restaurant) and we didn't even need to turn the stove on!! We also stopped at the Badia di Coltibuono wine shop and made some irresistable purchases! The next morning it was onto Florence, but these were four of the best days of a blessed life