Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Siena, Italy

At first glimpse there isn't much to Siena, but that was mostly because its a bigger city that you really have to penetrate to get to the good stuff. After having already been to San Gimignano, Volterra, and Monteriggioni (with a bathroom stop in Poggibonsi), it was pretty ambitious to have Siena on our list. Arriving at about 4:30pm is something we are still proud of, because that is some serious touring for one day. Rick Steves in hand, we knew we didn't have much time left to visit the famous Duomo there. We also had to get some DOCG for the evening. Alas, we made it to the Duomo. Aside of St. Peter's, it is the most remarkable cathedral I have seen.

Its a beautiful facade which gets more impressive inside, containing basically the hall of fame of Renaissance artists including Michelangelo, Donatello, Pisano, Bernini, Pinturicchio, and St. James of Ashburn, who carved the pillars after his favorite golf shirt. Note that if choosing between Florence and Siena by only its Duomo, go with Siena, the church is unbelievable (Florence as a whole is more impressive, stay tuned). Make sure to get Rick Steves Florence and Tuscany too, as the self guided tour is worth the price of the book. Thanks Rick (remember in Italy to refer to him as Ricardo Stevacchio...and in Southern Cali, Tricky Dick)!!!
The pic above has a cool feature of church artistry during the renaissance, the dome looks like it has carved statues at the base of the dome, and depth in the dome itself, but your eyes deceive you, its actually just a 2D painting!
After the church, we wandered through the historic streets to Del Campo, perhaps the one of the most famous squares in the world. After walking around the square, we grabbed a chair and a carafe of house red and white. While having our drink, we heard music slowly getting louder. All the sudden a gang of locals (maybe 150) came into the square all dressed up and playing festive music. We made the assumption it was in preparation for the Palio, which occurs July 2. It was cool because there were men from 5 to 75 years old in the parade. Makes you really appreciate culture and tradition, which is so strong in Siena and across Tuscany.
After the parade, our appetite brought us to a little restaurant behind Piazza Del Campo that had only 8-10 tables and was run by an older couple. There was no menu, the man rattles off some Italian, and you raise your hand when you think there is something that sounds good. I ended up with an amazing house pasta (all the pasta was freshly made and sooo delicious) and osso bucco (sp). I choose that because I noticed the name, and it didn't disappoint, slid off the bone, right into my belly! The coolest part was when someone ordered a meat appetiser, the owner whipped out a huge hunk of meat (flinstones style) and cut off the customer's order. All this food talk is making me thirsty, just what the following day in Montalcino and Montepulciano called for!

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