George Inn

In attempt to share my love of beer to those who read the blog, I am going to try and share my experiences about a different pub about once a week, discuss the beer and the vibe and tell you my (and usually Erin's) verdict. We've been to a good dozen old pubs in our three weeks here, but I wanted to find a truly great pub to start out this series that will extend until play time is over and its time to go home. Most of the info I'll include these posts is from my observations, talking with locals or barmen, or consulting the Good Pub Guide or various pub websites. However, it sounds like Cooper Irish Pub is a good 1st ring Minneapolis suburb substitute for the 300 year old pub experiences I will share. Congrats Kieran on another Mpls pub opening.

On to the older stuff.  George Inn is a London institution dating to the 16th century, yes thats the 1500's my friends. It is London's only surviving galleried Coaching Inn just off the foot of the London bridge, easily accessible from the London Bridge tube station. Once you get off the tube, take the Borough High Street exit and head left along Borough High Street for about 1.5 blocks and you'll see a gate and barely catch a glimpse of the 300+ year old pub from the street. Take a left to the lively courtyard with several long picnic tables where you can enjoy your pint outside on hospitable days and evenings, the view from the courtyard is perhaps the best, with the creaky bar and her well preserved galleries at your back.

The George is owned by the National Trust, with the current bar dating to 1676, rebuilt after the great Southwark fire of 1676, and when approaching and entering, there's no question why the National Trust took it over, as the atmosphere takes over when you approach and enter the bar; one can easily imagine Charles Dickens sitting in the coffee room, where he is rumored to have spent countless hours during his days in the city. You can definitely picture the carriages from the days of old pulling up to the pub and tipping back a couple before moving on to their destinations. Unfortunately the "old bar" was closed on Saturday afternoon when we visited, but we found a great nook in one of the several other cozy rooms to cuddle into our beers for an hour. I'd like to go back in front of the fire and play a game of steel-tipped darts in the old bar.

The beer itself is relatively standard by English standards, with all the Greene King beers on hand pump (which is obviously cool itself), including IPA, Old Speckled Hen, Abbot Ale, Royal London Traditional Ale, and the George Inn Ale, also brewed by Greene King.  There are 1-2 others on CO2, but who cares when you can have a traditional hand pumped ale.  I tried the George Inn Ale, which was a fairly standard english ale, but I am not usually one to send back a beer.  Erin had the Royal London, which had a similar result. Given the choice of the Greene King beers, I'd go for the IPA or the Abbot, which posses much more character.

All in all I would highly recommend the pub, if anything for the galleries, which are truly unique to a pub in our day, let alone central London. Combine it with a trip to the famous and nearby Borough Market, which is open Thursday to Saturday and has a lot of everything you would possible want to eat for lunch, or bring home to make a dinner or picnic.

George Inn
The George Inn Yard, 77 Borough High Street, Southwark, London SE1 1NH
Telephone +44 (0) 207 407 2056

Settling In and Saddling Up

Visits from family and friends were getting very few and far between during our last 6 months in Dublin so it is with sincere elation that we recently enjoyed visits from Lou's sister, who is pregnant but was the ultimate power tourist, and our favorite francophile Tanya and her charming beau out from Brussels.

Thus, we finally took time to start enjoying our amazing, sizable city starting with the epicenter for all foodies - The Borough Market.  Open Thursday, Fridays and Saturdays, the market is a mecca for noise, crowds and amazing produce.   We arrived around 1pm and snagged some falafal and brautwursts for lunch.

If you are going to buy groceries versus browsing, I would plan on arriving by 9am, to beat the crowds as you often have to jostle for space.  The English blue cheese, Spanish charcuterie and locally-grown, affordable vegetables are particularly worth the trek.  Coffee beans are also high up on the list of market must-haves, as the line at a shop called Roast was easily an hour long.

After the market we walked over the Millenium Bridge, which provides an amazing view of the London skyline (if there is such a thing) and has been featured in Bridget Jone's Diary and the latest Harry Potter movies.

We also enjoyed a quirky meal of fusion tapas at The Providores down the street from our flat, which we highly recommend.   There is a white tablecloth style restaurant upstairs, but we preferred the busy, local vibe and communal seating on the main floor.  Note that they do not take reservations so you will likely have to wait for a table.

Last but not least, after viewing more than 30 flats, we are happy to announce that we have a new flat to call home.  Starting at the end of the month, we'll be living in Holland Park about four blocks from the Tube station.  The high ceilings and terrace sold us as we hope to buy a bbq and spend many nights sitting outside.

The Big Smoke

Goodbye Dublin, hello Big Smoke.

Living abroad can be pretty brilliant. Exploring little cobblestone streets.  Stumbling upon a Sunday farmer's market.  Visiting incredible museums.  Tucking into a pint in an old pub. Meeting new people.  Jumping on a flight and landing world's away.  Tasting local, sometimes unidentifiable, cuisine.  No matter where you live, there is something to be said about truly becoming a local.

So as our time in Ireland recently drew to a close, we found we weren't quite ready to pack up our bags and head home. And while we will always recall with fondness walking to work, the nice people and the days the easterly wind smothered Dublin with the smell of brewing Guinnes at St. Jame's Gate, we were also ready for a change of European scenery.

London might be only a 35 minute flight from Dublin, but it is chaotic, colourful and at times, seemingly worlds away.  We set-up temporary camp in Marylebone, in the heart of the city and are enjoying the finer things of life whilst in corporate housing.....free rent.

In a nod to our newly formed Irish roots, our first evening we set out to find a local - Pontefract Castle.  A local meaning the closest pub to our door.  The Pontefract is a mere 20 feet from our flat and is great for specialty ales. Despite being only a block from the crowds of Oxford Circus it retains a traditional English pub charm.  Oxford Circus is my new nemesis as I fight the crowds to find the little hole in the wall that leads to St. Christopher Place where we live.  I swear sometimes it feels like half the population is trying to walk or push past the H&M.

As our second task, we scoped out neighborhoods all across the city that have been recommended and suggested as friendly, safe places to live.  Using the Tube is a little bit like being a mouse, scooting through long winding tunnels, riding up and down escalators and then popping up in fresh air in a completely different locale.

After commuting to work everyday for several years using the Metro in Washington, D.C., I have a great appreciation for public transport and was grateful that after hours of walking in Notting Hill, Fulham, Clapham Junction, St. John's Wood, Regent's Park, Camden, Primrose Hill, Earl's Court and South Kensington, I could duck underground, grab a seat and find myself home in under 20 minutes.  (London lesson 1 - Buy an Oyster card for the Tube or it will cost you a small fortune).

To Arthur...TO ARTHUR!!!

Last Thursday, we happened to be in the most IN place in the entire world...Dublin Ireland for Arthur Guinness Day, a magical day of alcohol-induced celebrations to mark the 250th anniversary of the black stuff.Strauss was kind (and savvy) enough to score tickets for us to attend the Foggy Dew, a historic pub at the foot of temple bar. The events, held at more than 15 pubs with a huge performance at St. James' Gate brewery itself, featured famous acts that were unannounced until the moment they arrived. We were treated to the Kooks, an english rock band who have a very chill vibe, check them out for yourself.

At the pub were Erin and I, Katie, Joelskie, Strauss, Cormac, Germaine and Tony. Arriving at 6pm, the Guinness game hard and fast, and didn't stop till the wee hours.

After the Foggy Dew we went to Hogan's on George's street, another popular Dublin bar, and met up with Strauss' office for yet a few more.

At the end of the night, it was Joel, Erin and I alone at where else other than Kehoe's, for a late night pint outside on the street. After Erin so heroically sent an older man who had split his head open on the curb to the hospital (his friends were going to let him continue drinking), we danced off the pints at Cafe En Seine and made one last (or second to last) Baggot street walk home.
The following day I had off as the movers came and picked up our goods for London, so I turned in my computer and was joined by about a dozen EY faithful for a series of pints at Kehoe's, outside until Guido complained too much about the cold, then to the upstairs bar which resembles more of a living room. Kehoe's is literally the best pub I have ever been too, with great history dating back to the 1800's, a great post-work outdoor scene which defines Dublin, and one of the best pints in the city. Thanks to all the current and post POD 3'ers for the great night, I'll miss you guys. After that, I hate to admit Colm, Oli, Mairead, Emer and myself washed down the Guinness with a couple bottles of not-so-wine-spectator-recommended wine. Mmmmm, vinegar. Nothing a little dancing can't overcome!!!

Ambling in Amsterdam

There is a lot more to Amsterdam than meets the eye. Especially when those eyes aren't wandering around the red light district at the various windows or coffee shops. As one meanders around the several hundred year old canals that define not only Dutch history, but European history, a sense of calmness sets in.

Particularly when wandering on Harengracht in the Jordaan neighborhood, which we were fortunate to stay in a really cool canal-view room at The Times Hotel. This is the very tranquil area of the city, close enough to the center (just blocks away from the Anne Frank House) but in an area undiscovered by many, full of little shops, bars, and restaurants.

I had a few hours between working in the suburb which is where I was all week before Erin arrived so I wandered around the canals and took advantage of the beautiful weather and took plenty of pics. We had dinner at Oliva Pintxos in the Jordaan neighborhood and then had some hard-to-find Dutch beer at T' Arendsnest, also a block from our hotel. There are about 20 great beers on tap and over 60 more in bottles. Great vibe inside with a sleek copper tap, old stools and a relaxed vibe that would please even the Belgium beer fan who on the cover scoffs at Dutch beer.

The next morning we found a nice little breakfast spot in the nine streets area which got us off onto the right foot for a full day of exploring. It was too nice out to go into any museums so we just aimlessly wandered around town all day long, stopping for some soup on the south part of town and watching the countless local boats float by. They know how to do it right in Amsterdam...relaxed Saturdays with friends and family cruising the canals was definitely the remedy.

That night, we went to De Kas for dinner. This is a must visit in Amsterdam and just a few stops down tram number 9 that you can pick up at the train station.

The following day we woke up and rented bikes, going out to the museum quarter, some local neighborhoods and the vast Vondelpark. The park is really great as there are tons of people walking around, picnicking, biking, and even enjoying themselves at one of the many beer gardens bordering the park. Having the bikes was a great and relaxing way to enjoy the city, especially given the nice weather. We rented our bikes from Orange Bikes (200 block of Singel). They were only 6 euros for 3 hours, well worth the memories of biking the canals of Amsterdam.

The trip was great, it was wonderful to get away and get calmness before the storm being our move to London in the next week!

Kotor, Montenegro & Dubrovnik, Croatia

Third of three new posts, see below for posts on our trip home and July in Dublin!

No, this isn't fake....its Montenegro!
A couple months ago, Joelskie and Strauss booked a weekend to Montenegro via Dubrovnik and asked Erin and I to go. Erin really wanted to but in the interest of saving money for our move, I pressured her out of it. Little did she know that I ended up booking and surprised her on her birthday (17 Aug). Lets just say I'm a good hubby!

So we departed on Friday afternoon and were joined by a friend of Strauss', Lio, or Doc, a welcome late addition to the weekend cast. Lio's flight got in a few hours after ours, so we took the opportunity to have a pizza dinner in Dubrovnik and check out the beautiful city walls in the moonlight, having dinner with this view in the old harbor.

Lio got in and we made it to Kotor at about 11pm, tossing our bags into our room before heading out to the stone pier to share some Croatian wine we picked up in Dubrovnik. It was pretty hot so we followed it with some night swimming.

The next morning we were all at it bright and early, departing from our hotel Palazzo Radomiri which in the "suburb" of Dabrota, a 45 minute walk from Kotor's old town. The walk was a little longer than expected, but with the beautiful views of Europe's southernmost Fjord, who would complain! The views were stunning (see first pic above for what we were dealing with).

Kotor, a UNESCO heritage town (along with the surrounding fjord or Boka Kotorska), is a beautiful town that is frozen in Venetian times with narrow alleys pressed against rugged mountains on the most inner part of the Boka. We wandered around the town and then took off to ascend the medieval footholds that formally protected its residents from outside threats. We didn't realize how high the climb would be. Below is about 1/4 of the way up at a small chapel. We thought we were almost there at that point, but persevered in the pounding heat to the summit of the peak which dominates the medieval town. You can see the beautiful orange-tiled houses beneath the ancient ramparts. The boat you see below is 305 feet, the 17th largest private yacht in the world owned by a Mexican mining kingpin.

The view from the top is indeed spectacular. We felt worse than we looked.

Following lunch at Caffe Pizzeria, we made it back to our place for a quick dip to cool off before heading to Budva, a similarly dated walled town directly on the Adriatic that is succumbing to over building faster than its neighbor, Kotor. Directly outside the beautiful old town are some pretty dodgy buildings. However, when inside the walls and on the beach directly outside the walls, the scene is serene. After taking a dip in a nearby beach, Erin and I walked the walls before heading back to Kotor. The walls are nice, but not quite as cool as the hike to the fortress in Kotor or the walls in Dubrovnik. But still, 16th century walls are 16th century walls, they were pret-tty cool!!

We had a little happy hour of a few Nikšićko's on the hotel pier before dinner. The sunset is beautiful overlooking the mountains across the Boka. But who even needs the pier with water like this!

We had an unforgettable dinner at Stari Mlini (old mill) which is about 10 minutes drive down the Boka away from Kotor. The restaurant boasts an amazing setting on a stream connecting the mountains and the fjord and the restaurant has its own holding pond for their speciality, Trout. Our table was right behind one of the mills, overlooking the stream under an old wood 'canopy'. Below is the stream with a table straddling it...not a bad setting!We had some incredible fish that night before going back to Kotor to experience the nightlife. This is at Cittadella, a trendy bar on the town walls that had a great setting overlooking the ramparts, which were lit up at night. We had a couple drinks there, then one in the main square before Joel, Erin and I followed the locals to Maximus, where a popular Serbian pop singer was playing that night. I think the three of us were the only ones who didn't know the songs. Note for single men looking for beautiful women...go to Kotor on a Saturday night:-)

We got in at about 2:30am and had a nice nights rest. We had a very average breakfast at the 5-star hotel next door, not very 5-star if you ask me. We then relaxed and swam for a while before taking off and Strauss realizing he left the car lights on, hence no battery. We tried to push start the car to no avail, but got a good workout. After an hour or so we got the cables, started the car and headed towards Croatia. We stopped in Pearst, another UNESCO village on the fjord, with two cool island churches. We drove on and had another hour in Dubrovnik before returning to the airport. Joel and I did a Dubrovnik power tour, walking the walls, getting a bite to eat, and having a beer at Buja bar before heading to the airport. Despite being a new and little country, Montenegro is a great getaway with all you can ask for, good food, warm water, medieval walls and passageways, fortresses, history and good company. All you need to do is make sure you have good company!!!

Home Sweet Actual Home

Second of three posts, make sure to check out below this one!!!

As August came, so did a trip home for both Erin and myself. For me it was arriving home on 6 August and heading straight up to Fish Lake, home of the dangerous doublewide, otherwise known as Borgie's cabin. Give the timing for my Dallas-based client, I didn't know if I would make it but at the last minute I was able to get a plan in place to go home that weekend, and work out of the Minneapolis office for the week. Thanks for planning the weekend around my return Borg's.

Another visitor made it back for the occasion, my little sister Lins. Although not Erin, one of the four sisters will do. We just wish she would've announced to everyone at the cabin that she had a cracked rib.The cabin was good. I won't go into too many details as this is a family site. You'll just have to experience it yourself. And you'll have to ask Kaake why he was buried and the feat he accomplished while playing ant farm.That week I saw most of the guys, went to a couple Twins games, and then went up north to Gull Lake to catch up with the in-laws, who I haven't seen in WAY TOO LONG. Some would say that's a good thing...myself, I don't think so! I also got some quality time in with my mom for her birthday, my sis and bro in law and dad at the Twins game, and then my aunt Kathy had mom's side of the family over for my mom and Grandpa Barney's b-days. I definitely did a great job squeezing everyone in during the week! Even saw the Johnston and Parrish families! Congrats Pat (not sure if you would ever read this)! Mike and Emily also had a nice gathering where I got to see all the Hopkins homies for the evening; the stars even aligned where Zach, myself and Jahnks were in the same place in one night!! Thanks again for having us over!! Also thanks to Megs and Ryan for giving Erin and I a home when we are orphans in Minneapolis!

Erin got home the Monday after I did and went up North after having dinner with myself and her aunt and uncle in Northeast. Her parents must of been in heaven as all the girls were home all week long! They went to Gull lake on the Wednesday and I met up with them on Friday.

It didn't take long for the sisterly love to take effect;-) But no hard feelings...I think its safe to say with daily trips on the pontoon, lots of local beer and home-cooked food, Jeff and Jenny's little girls, and some of the best weather of the summer, the Utz' had a great time!!

Its been a while and July concerts

We deeply apologize for the inactivity on the blog as of late. If you look at the post below, we moved into a new apartment in July, and unfortunately, our Irish friends have a problem with the concept of marginal revenues versus cost in relation to internet connectivity. Even before moving in to the new place, we learned we were going to move to London and as such couldn't get broadband because they make you sign a year contract for internet access! Seems like they could figure out that to activate an already wired apartment doesn't take much on their part, but not quite, so both us, (you), and the internet provider lost out on the no internet thing.

I digress; to catch everyone up on our happenings, July was a probably the most low-key month since we moved, no travels, just concerts in Dublin. In the interest of our finances, we decided to forgo a trip in July. I know you feel pity for us, but shed no tears, we'll make it.

Our friend Joel had lots of visitors out in July and early August, so we were the beneficiaries of some good times and fun nights out. Below are Joel, myself, and a fellow Minnesotan, Mr. Hadley.

We went to three shows in August. Actually only 1.5. The Eagles were in town playing at the RDS so as we have done in the past, we enjoyed the show from the canal, listening until about 10pm, then working our way into the show to catch the last 45 minutes (i.e. the best songs). It was cool to watch the Eagles as the may not be touring for much longer.

The next week Bruce (the Boss) was back in town. This time we weren't so lucky to get into the show, but it was still a great night and nice to have a couple beers on the stone wall banking the canal.

The next week was the one show we actually paid for, U2. When U2 play in Dublin and you live in the Irish capital, there are no excuses for missing the show. It was a great atmosphere and we had lower level seats. The only problem is that they were at the other end of the 360 stage (which are usually in the middle of the stadiums on tour). Not sure why they didn't do this at Croke Park, but nonetheless, we still had a great time at a historic show.

I am going to follow with a couple more posts in the next several hours as I have internet (courtesy of Mr. Strauss).