Monday, December 17, 2007

Baldais (thank you) Riga!

We just returned from a whirlwind weekend in Riga, Latvia! Lou had been working all week in Dallas and returned Saturday just in time for us to jump on a flight to Eastern Europe. Latvia is one of the most prosperous Baltic countries post-Soviet occupation so we were incredibly excited for the opportunity to visit such a unique place. We were also looking forward to wandering around Riga's historic Christmas market, the site of the first tree used in a Christmas celebration in 1510.

Walking through the cobblestone streets of Vecriga, the old town in Riga, you hear both Russian (40 percent of population) and Latvian spoken. Lou and I managed to learn and remember only one term, baldais, thought at least it was a critical one. Yet, Riga's culture has been influenced more broadly. Riga's skyline is dominated by the spires of medieval churches of christian, russian orthodox and lutheran descent.

Dining at Latvian restaurants, the menu highlights the impact that the Germans, Polish and Swedish also had on the region...salmon, vodka, sauerkraut and bratwursts. My mouth waters at the thought of Latvian steak and raganas, a hot drink made with milk, rum, honey and the infamous Riga Black Balsam, that tastes similar to absynthe. We drank to many a glass to stay warm while wandering around the charming market.
(Dixie cups of raganas)

It felt as if we stepped back in time. In spite of the 20 degree temps, locals gathered around wooden tables eating and drinking mulled wine and raganas. Wooden booths were filled with handmade scarfs, hats and socks, weaved baskets, hand-carved spoons, homemade gingerbread cookies, smoked fish, linens, and my personal favorite, animal hides and hats for sale. Little kids rode gleefully on a carousel that's animals were carved handsomely out of wood.We spent hours walking the city, gazing at the labyrinth of alleys and impressive 18th and 19th century architecture. We went to the top of St. Peter's Church, which looms over the city, but were only able to see a few feet in front of us as the fog was so thick. Saturday night we roamed from local bar to local bar, dancing with the locals and having a good time trying all of the Latvian beer. Sunday was chilly so we stopped in an Orthodox church, toured another, grabbed coffee and cake at a local tea house and browsed the shops and markets. Despite the strong lat, the local currency, things were relatively cheap so we picked up a water color painting of the city, handmade Christmas ornaments and a a few other items to remember Riga. We are now determined to visit more Eastern European cities after such an amazing trip.
(Having a 'ball' in Riga!)

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