Thursday, March 19, 2009

Sofia, Bulgaria

After the longest continuous stint in Ireland of six weeks (not counting my return home in February) we finally embarked on our long awaited trip to Sofia, Bulgaria, including a day and a half in Plovdiv and a day trip to the Rila mountains, south of Sofia. This post will highlight the highlights of Sofia.

We arrived in Sofia after a three hour flight from Dublin on Saturday night, and grabbed a taxi for 10 leva (5 euro) into the city to the Sofia Guesthouse, situated in a great location near countless bars and restaurants. After dropping our stuff off, we had dinner at Divaka, an amazingly cheap and quality restaurant. We were definitely the only english speakers there to experience a great meal for only €30, which included 4 courses, wine, and rakiya, a traditional (and strong) appertif traditionally served with salad (we later learned it was historically served with salad to kill the germs hiding in the lettuce).

The next morning we woke up to an amazing sunshine that normally escapes us in both Ireland and during our eastern europe trips, but we were blessed with sunshine and took a couple hours before Rila monestary to buy some gum at this little store. As you can see, there are many stores you literally have to crouch to make your purchases, don't think it would fly in the US due to handicap inaccessbility...
Note that when traveling to Bulgaria, it might be a good idea to write down the cyrillic name of the restaurants and bars you want to check out, or at least have a guide book with both the roman and cyrillic names in them, as all the names are in cyrillic in Sofia (naturally). Our guidebook had only the roman names, but we lucklily had the address numbers of the places and a pair of good navigators.
On a factual note, Sofia is the highest elevated capital in all of europe as it is sitting in a large mountain valley, its even higher than Bern!
There is also a riff between the gov't and the rubbage collectors, so we ran into a few of these.
After checking out the piles of garbage we saw the two cool sights of Sofia (there may be a couple more, but you are stretching to say so...the best thing about Sofia are its people and its food), Alexander Nesky church, and the Russian Orthadox church.
After our trip to Rila, we went to the Butcher's Cafe, a little spot that looks like a shotty meat counter from the outside, very simplistic, but once you get past the simplified meat counter, you go to the back and find one of the most charming little restaurants around. The owner is very friendly and just lists off the menu for you (thankfully his english was good enough to make it work). We had a nice charcuterie board, followed by a spanish egg and potato dish and then a peruvian meat and rice dish. This was all washed down with a nice Bulgarian wine (which is amazing by the way and very affordable of course). Desert completed a great meal, which we walked off by checking out the cathedral at night;
then going to a great bar called apartment, in which you enter an old loft, make your way to the fridge in the kitchen and help yourself to some beer, homemade wine or rakiya and a selection of finger food of your liking. It was probably one of the most laid back bars I have ever been too, very very cool.
The next morning it was off to Plovdiv. Sofia is definitely worth a visit, but only if you combine Plovdiv or a day trip to the countryside as you run out of sights relatively quickly. However, the food was terrific and the price was even better. Cheapest drinks since Prague circa 2001 (30 cent pints with Jordan and Dann cannot be beat).

Sunday, March 08, 2009

Bray, Enniskerry and Powerscourt

Without a car, we sometimes get sucked into doing the same thing on the weekends, walking around Dublin city-center using the same route to get into town, going to the same spots, etc.
Yesterday we got up early and grabbed the DART train out to Bray, a suburb of Dublin about 10-15 miles down the coast from Dublin. Bray reached the height of its prosperity in the mid-1800's when the train line was built from Dublin and victorian hotels were built aside its boardwalk. Unfortunately the boardwalk hasn't changed much and today the coastal part of the town is a bit run-down. However, if you look to the east you see only the nice pebble beach and cliffs surrounding the town.
The old-town off the beach is much nicer, with a quait, lively main street with coffee shops, pubs, and even a bowling alley that we scoped out for a future night out.

After Bray, we took the bus to Enniskerry, a little village that is no more than a main roundabout with a few shops scattered from the circle. We saw the first Irish version of the English red phone booth as well...though not quite as cool.
Beyond the cute shops is Powerscourt, which is an old manor house dating from the 1500's that has been turned over to the public. The gardens are really beautiful and a bit like those on Isa Bella (see July 2008 post), just not quite as fancy (as you would imagine a palace in the Italian Lake district would have the upper hand). Erin and I grabbed lunch from the cafe there and sat on the terrace overlooking the gardens.
We then wandered through the gardens, checking out the japanese garden, rolling down the terraced hills and just hanging out for a couple hours before heading back on the bus to the city.
On the way back, we spotted these two nooks that were deprived of statues, so we made up for it by becoming flute players ourselves!
It was great to get out and has us excited for next weekend's trip to Bulgaria!

Sunday, March 01, 2009

A beautiful day in the neighborhood

Erin and I woke up with a bit of a headache after Ireland's triumph over England in the six nations rugby tournament, but forced ourselves to get some early fresh air as the sun was shining for a change! We aimlessly wandered for a couple hours, here are the results.

The sunshine doesn't last very long in Ireland. It started pouring shortly after this photo.

A recent night in to celebrate Valentine's Day.
Proof that it snowed once while we lived here. That is Erin walking outside our flat.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Family Style

While living abroad can seem envious, the reality is that we also live a pretty simple life in Dublin. We clean our apartment, do lots of laundry (it takes approximately 3 hours to do one load as the washer and dryer is the same unit), go grocery shopping (daily), pay bills, etc.

At the top of our list of normal things we do is hang out with friends. Katie, in addition to being my yoga pal, and I regularly entertain ourselves by planning family dinners on the weekends while Lou, Strauss and Rob play the Wii. Again, very stressful living here.

We recently made some killer paella. Eat your heart out espana!
A recent night out in Dublin

Sunday, February 08, 2009

Best of the Best (Longest Post Ever)

January 2009 has cme and gone, nobody really misses it. February has came and is here. Last week saw the first snow in Dublin that has stuck since 1999 (or 1984 according to other sources) . As such, we've spent lots of time indoors, more time at work as it is my busy season, more time daydreaming, and no time traveling. For that we apologize to our dedicated viewers who haven't gotten their fix of the old world in the past month.

During the past several weeks, Erin and I have been debating about the best memories from the past 15 months living in Europe and have decided that it is best to share the times with you through this post.

We had lots of amazing places to choose from and we thank our hosts from the countless places we have stayed and sights we have seen! Beginning with Dublin in October 07, to Riga, York, Dingle and Galway, Brussels, Kao Yao Noi Thailand, Bangkok, Krakow, Marrakech and Essouria, Venice, Tuscany, Florence, the Cotswolds, Copenhagen, Malmo, Locarno, Lake Como, Lake Maggiore, Seville, Granada, Cordoba, Malaga (and in between), Dubrovnik, Split, Hvar and the rest of the beautiful Dalmatian islands, London, Windsor, Budapest, Prague, Munich, Regensburg, Salzburg, and Kitzbuhel.....phew.....what times we have had with more to come.....and now our favorites with a one-liner attached....
Best City
Erin - Marrakech - a confluence of funky smells, bright colors, donkeys and skewered meats in an ageless medina.
Lou: Seville - more history, better food, bluer skies, and more relaxing than any other European city.
Best Meal

Erin: Roki's, Vis Island, Croatia - impossible to get to on your own, the owner picks you up in his mystery mobile and let's you feast on your own peka, a traditional croatian dish of slow-cooked fish over hot coals. Perfect paired with a glass of Bulgava from the vineyard. Lou: TIE: Badia de Coltibuono (Radda in Chianti, Italy) and Vieux aux Brussels, Ixelles Neighborhood, Brussels - not sure if it was the handful of belgian beers during the day, but the escargot followed by the amazing rabbit in a perfect bistro setting will be remembered forever. The steak florentine was delightful, you could drink its juices like a glass of cold milk.
Top Day

Erin - Koh Yao Noi - We ate exotic fruits, drank champagne and enjoyed the most mesmorizing setting of the sunset on the hongs.
Lou - Vis Island - Anchoring the boat in the bay, arriving in Vis, going to Roki's all together made the most amazing day of our stint!
Top Church

Erin: St. Mark's - This church, led by John Paul the II, before his 'promotion', is a colourful surprise for formerly communist Krakow.
Lou: Siena's Duomo - Everything to love about the unoffical hall of fame of renaissance artists, I think all 4 ninja turtles have an alter here.
Top Drive

Erin - Dubrovnik to Split: Sweet views, see-through water, sixteenth century villages, singing to the radio and single best olive oil ever tasted off a road side stand. If we could've only figured out a way to import this stuff, we would have retired in November. Literally, we were all licking the bottle to the last drop.
Lou - Longtail ride from Phuket to Kao Yao Noi: We didn't think places like this existed. The old-school longtail, combined with hundreds of hongs, fisherman earning a day's wage, and nomads living in the cliffside make it a beautiful yet surreal ride. Top Old Town

Erin - Girona: The start of the ancient road to Rome, Girona's old jewish quarter has more character than Ocean's 11.
Lou - Venice: The entire city is an old town and probably the most unique city in the world.
Top Drink

Erin - Raganas in Riga, Latvia - Raganas is an eastern European version of holiday egg nog, but spicier and stronger given its addition of blasam, a local anise liquor. I have spent countless hours online trying to find a recipe without any luck. Anyone know any Latvians?

Lou - Lime Soda at the Paradise Bar - Those who know me assume it would be a belgian trappist or a smooth guinness, however, nothing is more refreshing than the lime soda at the Paradise Bar on Kao Yao Noi, Thailand - and its non-alcoholic!!!

Top Village

Erin - Cadaques, Spain - The sun rising on the Mediterranean and lighting up the white washed village is breathtaking.


Lou - Stari Grad (Hvar Island), Croatia - its almost a toss-up between here and Jelsa, just down the island, but the ageless seaside cottages combined with streets so narrow you could barely fit a donkey, let along a car, make the atmosphere here more of a brothers grimm tale than reality.
Top Bar

Erin - Novak, Pakleni Islands off Hvar, Croatia - Shipwreck me anytime right up against the rocky island coast and I'll find a cool spot in the shade (trees) to spend my days.

Lou - Novak - gotta go with Erin, I am even surpised I would choose this over the beer halls of Munich or the Delirium Bar with its 2000 strong beer menu, but this may be the most relaxing place I have ever been. 'Should I fall asleep with a Lasko or a Karlovako in the tree or resting against the log?'
Top Square

Erin - Prague - Prague's old town is straight out of a movie, filled with turrets, towers and a medieval clock tower.

Lou - Siena, Italy - A plate of cheese and a bottle of Chianti goes perfect with grown men in red and white tights dancing around the square dating to the middle ages.
Top Vista

Erin - Vis Island, Croatia - with one hand on the throttle, scottering high above the sparkeling clear blue waters and untamed vineyards, anyone would be tempted to run out of gas permantely.
Lou - Erin, Hvar, Croatia - This picture embodies this entire holiday in Croatia; complete relaxation on the boat while moored up in a 16th centry harbour. We didn't want this week to end! Its also my fav vista b/c of my cute wife!
Top Street

Erin - Venice Grand Canal - One of the world's most unique and mesmorizing journeys - the same as if you took the ride 500 years ago - except for the tourists.
Lou - Dubrovnik's Stradun, Croatia - If you are lucky enough to get a cruise ship free day, the marble streets take you to another era, perhaps another world.
Top X-mas Market

Erin - Riga, Latvia
Lou - Regensburg, Germany
Top Beach

Lou and Erin - Koh Hong - need we say more....