Provence, Part 3 - Arles to Cassis

Just when we thought we couldn't see any more amazing villages, enter St. Remy and Arles. Two jewels of Provence, these are two great cities to combine together for a day trip from Avingnon. We began the day in St. Remy, which has a much smaller Saturday market than I was expecting. Regardless, it was nice to wander around the town where Van Gogh lived for a summer and got a morning espresso (or as the french say, cafe).

Following St. Remy, we took about 20 minutes of beautiful, windy roads past Les Baux (not recommended as it isn't really a village but more of a tourist trap) and to Arles. We caught the tail end of one of the largest Saturday markets in all of France, even buying a few goodies to go along with the photos.

After the market, we had lunch at A Cote, the little sister to the famous Michelin-starred L'Atelier that shares the same chef's and kitchen. I splurged for the grilled lobster, which was of course amazing.

Following lunch we did the tours of Roman Arles, checking out the amazing colliseum and Roman Ampitheatre. The colliseum is surreal and really relaxing to get lost in. And for €6 for the two sites, not a bad value either. It is really well preserved and worth a separate visit to the city just to see this site.

Following our tour of Roman Arles, including checking out Cafe La Nuit, which was immortalized by Van Gogh in one of his famous paintings, we wandered around the tiny streets of the town before heading back towards Avignon.

Once back to Avignon, Erin and I took the opportunity to see the sunset over Avignon across the Rhone from the city itself. It is really peaceful with lots of benches and grass to enjoy the views from.

We then made it back to our Domaine for one last night of home cooked Provencial food ala Erin. Below is the Domaine, a 16th century manor house converted B&B.

The following morning, our last in France, we made it back to the coast to Cassis, another amazing village that I had visited when studying abroad. Aimlessly strolling along the boats and promanade of the village is a great way to begin a relaxing day.

The weather was also amazing this time and we were able to take a Calanques tour. The tour itself was €20 for two and takes about 90 minutes to do all the Calanques. We would've liked to stop at the beach below but time didn't really permit, and the water was still on the chilly side.

Following the tour and a marginal dinner, we decided it was time to head home and get back to reality in London. It was a great return to where my passion for traveling began and was equally great to share all of it with Erin.

Provence, Part 2 - Chateauneuf to Avignon

After a nice lunch in Orange, it was back to try Beaucastel a second time. We made sure we arrived 15 minutes early so we didn't miss the second consecutive tour. We had several friends recommend Beaucastel as a great place to take a tour and do a tasting, and not just because they are perhaps the most well regarded estate in Chateauneuf de Pape. Also, with their top (currently for sale) wines selling at $550 a bottle, the fact that you aren't obligated to buy such a bottle as part of the tour is nice too. The tour itself was very comprehensive, and was (potentially) made more personal given the vineyard owner who took the tour with us has indirect business relationships with Beaucastels JV in the US.  

The estate itself was incredibly beautiful and as one of the most historic vineyards in the world, definitely lived up to its promise. We tried several wines in the old cellar, including the 2008, 2007 and 2001, all very good. It was interesting to try the three of those as well as some other wines in the region, and be able to tell just how much more complex and flavorful the aged Beaucastle was then all the others.

One of the other things they do is always keep a decent (but perpetually dwindling) stock of older vinetages on hand if some of their more important customers are looking to replenish their stock. And surprisingly, being such a historic vineyard, they haven't rested in place and have established stat of the art wine making  techniques.

Following Beaucastel, we did some more of the region wine experience in Gigondas, stopping first at the village just north of Gigondas called Siguret, which is only a few minutes out of the way but worth stopping for the view of the nearby vineyards if the Plus Beaux Village title doesn't convince you.

We then stopped at Gigondas on the way home. We didn't eat here, but there is a great restaurant in the village that is owned by the Perrin family, who own and operate the Beaucastel estate.

From Gigondas (after a tasting at the local wine "coop" and picking up a couple bottles, we made it to Isle sur La Sourge, which is home to some canals and argubaly the best antique stores and markets in Provence. The real reason we went there was for dinner at Le Vivier an affordable but amazing one star michelin restaurant.

The four course menu is only €40 or so and provides amazing value for the quality of food served here. I had perhaps the best steak I have ever eaten and Erin had a lamb trio that was amazing.

The following day we had a morning tour at Domaine de Giraud. While not quite as intimidating as the Beaucastel empire, the brother and sister run vineyard in creates some amazing wine. Marie was a great host, letting us try some 2010 directly from the barrels. It was interesting to try the Mouverde from the same year, but grown in different soil. Amazing how the type of soil (rock v. clay in our case) can completely dictate the taste of the wine.

That afternoon we walked around Avignon and took a tour into the Palais des Papes, which was as amazing as I remember it longggg ago. It was a great day and all necessary for a complete holiday in Provence.