Pub Crawl: East London Thames Path

In an effort to get out and (a) see unexplored parts of London and (b) check out some "new" pubs, we organised a Wapping-area pub crawl a couple weeks ago. Armed with the good pub guide, we set a course from the Limehouse DLR stop and headed westward along the Thames. This area has lots and lots of history, and when there's history in England, there are surely old pubs!

Our first pub, Grapes dates back to 1720, but was a pub even before it opened as Grapes. It is a really long and narrow pub and at the rear has a deck hanging over the river. This pub was also well known by Charles Dickens, who used to stand on tables and sing to customers. No joke.

The pub crawl started out with Strauss, in town from Dublin, Pramit, Sam, Jessica, Erin and myself. We were a little slow getting moving that morning, but it ultimately didn't slow down the number of pubs we would see on the crawl.  Grapes is a great pub and hits the spot!

We then picked up Emily and made it to the Narrow for another pint and some lunch. The Gordon Ramsey pub has some great taps that include St. Edmunds and a couple Adnams choices. While the pub itself isn't too old and has been refurbished to Gordon Ramsey quality. It is however, a great spot to have very high quality pub food and is a good pub in a crawl down here to line the stomach with some good food between beers!

The next pub was the main event that the crawl focused around, the Prospect of Whitby. The bar, one of the most historic in England and perhaps the world, dates to 1520 and was originally the meeting place for some of the lowest of old London society. There is a great deck on the second floor, found by going through a room that used to house boxing matches and cock fights (little Jerry Seinfeld's descendants maybe). The pub had Doom Bar, Fuller's and Samuel Smith's on tap, among others. We enjoyed beers on the patio with great views of the river.

The following bar we went to was called the Captain Kidd, and perhaps my favorite of the bunch. This bar, which has been a public house for over 100 years, is located close to the execution docks where the famous Captain Kidd was hung. Erin x2 joined us at this pub and our numbers perfectly fit into the nook of a room dominated by a big old wood farmhouse table. This pub kept us warm while there was a brief downpour outside. The pub was packed and there was lots of revelry at the Samuel Smith pub. Their stout is excellent by the way!

As 7pm was fast approaching, we made it to the last pub of the evening, the Town of Ramsgate. This pub, also very historic, was said to be where the infamous Judge Jeffries was identified while having a pint before fleeing the country. Along with the others, it was a great pub to end the crawl at, with a refreshing pint of Leffe to counter all the pints of English ale consumed throughout the day.

The pub crawl, while longer than expected, was a great way to spend Saturday. We made it to 5 pubs in all, having a pint in each. Spread that over several hours and it was a relatively subdued crawl, which was perfect for us. At the end of it, we all made it to Brick Lane for some good Indian before calling it a night (at 11:30pm)!!

Greek Island Hopping Part Two: Folegandros to Santorini

Folegandros....a lot apparently has changed on this sleepy island over the last 15 years. When we arrived on our ferry from Sifnos at 10:30pm on a Monday, we got in the van that the hotel we stayed at, Fata Morgana, dispatched for us. The nice Italian couple we shared the van with explained how they first came in 1995 when there were only three cars on the island, and one bus (that is still used today)! 1995! Also, there were no hotels then either, only 15 years ago.  Thankfully not a lot has changed on the island. There are certainly more cars, hotels and restaurants now, but there is still a very local vibe that will hopefully remain. 

After we dropped our bags off and freshened up, we hit the village of Chora (pitcured above), a beautiful whitewashed village that is completely pedestrian (not because of preservation or anything like that, but because there never have been cars here)! The village itself is majestic; it consists of three squares flowing one into the next and has trees covering the squares. There are lights on most trees which presents an amazing setting to eat some great octopus washed down with a Mythos!

The night was really relaxing and refreshing. The next morning we woke and saw the beauty of the little island in daylight, and the sweet views from the pool!

Following breakfast we got a few picnic items for the beach and jumped on the bus to Agali, where we skipped the beautiful beach (below - but we swam there later) and got on a boat to a beach called Lavalki (or something like that), only accessible by boat. The beach was really great, snorkeling, sun (and shade) and some cliff jumping. 

We unfortunately didn't jump off that one as the water was way too shallow for jumping in those situations. There was however, a cliff to deeper water about half as high around the other side. You can see Jenna, Joel and I contemplating the jump. 

After the beach we headed back to our hotel and took a short dip before heading to town and having perhaps the best meal of the trip (wait I said that in the last post!), Erin and I split a massive lobster that we had to share to finish, combined with some great pasta. The cats spoiled the ambiance a little (be sure to send Linsey birthday cards with cats on them, she'll be sure to thank you), but we had a great night nonetheless. 

The next day we had a really relaxing one, sitting by the pool, pure relaxation and chillin'! It was nice not to go anywhere except for the pool, the bar and the lounge chairs!

That night Joelskie and I had a man-date to the church you see in the pic above and caught an amazing sunset! The girls certainly missed out as the walk is easy and the sun wasn't blazing. The views were absolutely remarkable. 

After some ridiculous kebabs, we hit the town for some partying, finding a few great spots to wet the lips! The next morning, after three quick nights, it was time to say goodbye to Folegandros, a fantastic place to go and relax, and to get away from the over-commercialized resorts of the other islands, great character, good people, and beautiful views of the Aegean Sea.  

When you approach Santorini, its hard to believe you have finally arrived; the place that people see pictures of and have to pinch themselves to make sure this place exists on earth; we had arrived! Santorini is built on a volcano, with many of the villages perched high on the rocks, defying gravity as buildings literally hang off the cliff. We choose the village of Oia to stay for our three nights, as most travel resources (Strauss) suggest this is the most beautiful place on the island...he was right.

We stayed at Atrina Houses, which I advise everyone else to follow our recommendation as you will be blown away by the hotel. There are about 20 rooms that are traditional houses of the islands. An amazing breakfast is brought to you each morning directly to your balcony, its quite the treat. Chocolate chip banana bread was the crowd favorite!

The first day we were there we walked down 240+ steps from Oia to the "beach", which meant you find a lava rock to drop your towel on and then take an super refreshing dip in the waterhole. This was one of the best spots we swam at because of the great snorkeling, cliff jumping, and rocks that made it close to the top of the water, but not quite so you didn't have to float the whole time. The water was also sublime!

Following the swim we got delivery dinner of kebabs, which was great to relax overlooking the sea with some vino and brewskies. 

The following day we rented a car and did a tour of the island, stopping at the various unique beaches that consisted of either red or black sand. Needless to say the beaches were HOTTTTTT!!! It was probably 105 degrees out and after roughing it at the red sand beach, we sprung for the umbrella at the second. The beaches on the southern part of the island are great, with a young student-vibe, particularly around Perissa, where it appeared the beach parties go into the early hours. 

The vibe in Oia was slightly more subdued, where a lot of couples were spending their honeymoons or anniversaries there. The woman running the hotel, one of three sisters, was very helpful and booked us reservations for an amazing fish joint near our first day swim. We again had octopus, squid and picked out an amazing local fish. The ambiance was perfect and we really enjoyed the meal (but not the walk up)!!

If you noticed above, I let my facial hair grow all trip and then on the last full day of the trip, gave myself an interesting stash!! Here's to you, Carl Pavano!! Enlarge below for full effect.

This is sunset on the island, you can see the harbor we had our fish dinner at all the way down by the water. The sunsets, though not quite as serene as Folegandros, were gorgeous!

The rest of our time on Santorini consisted of lounging around Oia, chillin' by the pool with our books, often jumping in. It was really the first trip we had taken where it was mostly beaches and relaxing. Needless to say we'll be doing it again next summer. It was also really nice to have Linsey, Jenna and Joel along for some extra banter and fun for the trip. We were especially happy that Linsey made it all the way from SF to join our travels. There were no bumps, no cuts, no flesh wounds, which made us all breathe a sigh of relief, especially after the dodgy dirt roads we took the scooters on.

It was also the end of the road for Jenna's summer abroad. She had a pretty cushy life out here in London, free room and board, massages with Erin (especially poolside pirate lesbian mermaid massages in Folegandros), caesar salads, pints at the POW, traveling to Europe's hot spots every other weekend...yeah she had it pretty good, and we're sad to see her head back to school!

Lastly, what can you say about Joelskie, "ya know what I'm sayin"? He was a true trooper with the Utz', and was kind enough to bunk up with Jenna for a few nights of the trip! He even made my photo taking less annoying by nearly equalling the number of photos I took with his sleek Cannon pocket-sized money camera. We're just waiting for him to return from Mexico so he can share some of those photos!

The next morning we awoke early and had a few hours at the pool before heading back to the airport. The water and sky are so amazing when looking out from the island, the pool water too had some fine qualities. 

Alas, it was time to close the Greek chapter of our life. Words can't describe the greatness of the Greek islands. I think you have to go there yourself to get the complete Greek experience. Santorini, Sifnos and Folegandros are pretty good options and as you can see, are beautiful, unique, and highly recommended.

Greek Island Hopping Part One: Athens to Sifnos

Every year we try and plan one blow out vacation complete with history, food, sun, beaches and non stop adventure (and wine). One may have assumed our Sicily trip with Jenna in July fufilled that criteria, which it definitely did, but it was only a quick four day jaunt. One of the few European countries we have not checked off the list is Greece, and it goes without saying it is a must see destination. The only question is where do we start, where do we wander and where do we finish?

Thankfully Greece is a popular destination with lots of resources to plan your perfect holiday. Over the years spent pondering this trip, we knew we wanted a day in Athens to see the Acropolis and had to see the beautiful white washed buildings on Santorini. So with 9 nights at our disposal, we used the expertise of Matt Barrett and his endless pics and sights of Greece to fill in the blanks. 

We arrived in Athens on a Friday at about noon to scorching heat, subconsciously thanking ourselves for planning only one day in the Capital (away from the water). Erin and I were graced by the company of Jenna, Linsey and Joelskie, making a perfect quintet for the trip!!

In our opinion, people give Athens a worse rap that it demands, as the city is steeped with history; given that western civilization began here and the traces of ancient Greece are all over the city. I find this impressive given that was nearly 2600 years ago!!

On arrival we took the metro into the city, which is very very easy. There is no reason to taxi into town with the ease of transportation to and from the airport. We dropped our bags off at the hotel, Fresh Hotel to be precise. This hotel is great value and I would look no further in finding accommodation in Athens. There is a rooftop bar, restaurant and pool and is the perfect place to kick your feet up after a long and hot day touring. We were starving so our first stop was for lunch, which we found an old taverna whose name escapes me, but the taste of the wonderful greek salad will not. We then made our way to pick up our ferry tickets at the travel agency we booked at. It was impossible to find and we barely noticed the second floor sign before giving up our search. It was definitely a waste of time and I would suggest having them couriered to your hotel if possible. 

After getting our ferry tickets, we headed to the Acropolis, taking in the amazing history perched proudly  on the highest point of the city. We arrived as the scaffolding was coming completely off for the first time in years, so it was quite a treat to survey the ancient structure without modern restoration equipment ruining the view. Its hard to believe all that has passed its massive pillars through its existence, as it dates back to the 6th century BC and was built as a temple to the gods to protect the city. Its hard to imagine the manual labor put forth to build the temple. Also on the site are multiple amphitheaters with equally as long of a history; one is still in use today for performances.

After the site we slowly made our way back to the hotel and spent the evening on the lounge couches that have an amazing view of the Acropolis (see sunset photo above, taken from the couches) having dinner and several Mythos beers, while anxiously waiting our departure for the Cyclades the following morning.

We had a 7am departure the next morning from the port of Pireaus, where most of the ferries leave from. It is a bit chaotic around there so if travelling, be sure to give yourself plenty of time to find your ferry. The metro was closed for repairs when we were there, so we took a EUR20 taxi that dropped us off directly at the line for our ferry, which made things much easier and is honestly worth the money in exchange for less early morning hassle. 

After a two hour (highspeed) ferry we arrived at the Island of Sifnos, which is very highly recommended by Matt Barrett. As you'll see below, his recommendation was VERY well received by the five of us!

A note about booking ferries: when looking for ferries there are many sights (just google them). We used fantastic greece, which has a nice booking engine that allows you to purchase an itinerary that even includes multiple ferry operators. This saves lots of hassle. Also, it is worth the extra few euro to take the high speed ferries whenever possible, as it cuts journey time by at least 50%. Also, ferries do not operate on every day, especially in the off season, so before booking hotels, make sure the ferry timetable jives with your plans!

We spent our two nights here in the town of Apollonia, which is the capital of the island. It isn't on the water, which we were initially concerned about, however, there is a handy bus that goes to the major beaches at it costs EUR1.5 per trip. Alternatively, you can rent scooters or ATVs, which we did for two days. It was only EUR15 a day for scooters at a place in the heart of Apollonia. We stayed at Eleonas Apartments, ran by Stavros and Sarah, who were very friendly and helpful. The apartment fit all five of us and had AC, a terrace overlooking the village and a full kitchen which you can stock at the market only 100 yards away in the town center.

We dropped our bags off and while familiarizing ourselves with the town, ran into this guy and his melon toting donkey. We naturally took some pics and bought a melon. It was great to see the mobile fruit stand making its way through main "street"!

We then quickly grabbed our suits, bought two sets of snorkel gear, and made our way to our first beach of the trip, Faros. The beach was nice, not many people were there and the trees gave us a bit of shade from the 100 degree heat! The pics below, though beautiful, still don't do it justice as the water was so clear and blue, similar to the beaches at Scopello (Sicily), Vis (Croatia) and Cala Ganome (Sardinia).

After some reading, paddleball and snorkeling, we headed back to our apartment for bottle of wine before dinner. Below is the view Kato, the neighboring town, from our terrace. It was fun to have the traditional blue roofed church as our next door neighbor!

The next morning we rent scooters and made our way to the sparsely populated north part of the island, where we felt like we had to ourselves. The scooters are so great as you really feel like you are on vacation when cruising around the hairpin cliffside turns! Below is our first swimming spot, amazing water!!

After a little dip we walked up to the village of Heronissos, perhaps the best beach and restaurant of the entire trip. The boats below with the shadow in the water give an indication of the clarity we were dealing with!

The restaurant, Ammodia, was amazing. They take you inside and you pick the fish you want. We had two great ones that were grilled perfectly by the little old lady manning the grill. We started with lightly breaded calamari that was without question, the best I've EVER had. See a happy Erin about to be satisfied!

After lunch we did some more swimming in the bluest of blue water then headed on our scooters back towards town. 

On the way back, we stopped at Kastro, a great little town only 5 minutes from Apollonia. The beach had some sea urchins, which we thankfully avoided. The sun was starting to set over the island and it was a nice cool dip before returning back to the capital!

We picked up some goodies at the market and cooked a great meal at the apartment, with everybody preparing part of the meal. 

We were astonished at the amount of people partying in the little village. It explodes with energy at night, with people spilling out of the many restaurants and bars and onto the street. After a game of 10 up 10 down, Joel, Jenna and I made it into town for a bit of dancing. The bars close at 2:30am, at which time everyone makes it to one of two night clubs that are undoubtedly open till sunrise. We made it till 3:30 and had to give up when Joel fell asleep in the club!

The next morning we started our day at Vathy, which had some of the nicest sand of the trip. There was a good amount of fish to see with the snorkel gear to, and Jenna found a starfish, which the little girls around us (and Jenna) played with. We had lunch at the little taverna just above our beach towels before heading to Chrysopigi, which served as confirmation this island is beautiful when planning the trip, with the blue waters surrounding the outcropped church!

Following what we thought was the final beach, we made our way back to Kamares where we had one last dip in the sea before the ferry whisked us to our next destination, Folegandros. 

If going to the Cyclades, do not miss this island, it is very local with tons of charm, beautiful beaches, great nightlife and great people! I think we'd all agree it was the best island of the trip (and that's on a trip with Santorini)!!

Numero tres

We recently celebrated our 3rd anniversary with dinner on the canal in Maida Vale - a little victorian neighborhood in west London.  Its little known that there's a canal system in London.  This one - known as little Venice - wraps around various parts of the city and is used for leisure cruising and scenic walks.

There are a hundred or so houseboats that border the canal.  A trendy, commute-free way to live in the middle of London or in our case, a peaceful place for dinner.

I'd heard of a pop-up store, but a pop-up restaurant? The Summerhouse is up now and will be open until mid-October.  I loved the Nantucket vibe with white-washed walls.  When the weather is goods, its open air vibe makes a perfect setting for a romantic, yet casual meal.  

Brick Lane and bowling

Each neighborhood in London has its own split personality -  a mix of history and modern culture.  All you need to do is select a different Tube stop and you exit,  feeling like you're in a completely different place. Washington, D.C. too, reminds me of this.  Smithsonian and you're at the heart of the national mall.  Old Town with its colonial charm. Adam's Morgan and your senses are overwhelmed - colourful restaurants, grungy graffiti and jumbo pizza slice smells.  Brick Lane in London takes this sensory overload one step further.  Unfortunately, this picture doesn't do it justice but it is one long neighborhood that winds through various bric-a-brac markets selling curries and odd collectables, upmarket Spitalfields and ends in the middle of London's Bangladeshi community. Jack the Ripper also started his conquests here.

The area is starting to become more developed, but remains one of the most colourful and vibrant parts of the city.  This is a perfect spot to bring someone that has seen Big Ben and Portobello Road and is looking for a glimpse into life in the city.  Lucky for me, Linsey, who studied abroad in London during university and came over for a visit, was up for such an adventure. Where else could you have a cocktail on an old school bus, view graffiti by Banksy and complete the evening with a traditional Indian spread? We dined at Aladdin on a recommendation.  There were no flying carpets but the food was unbeatable and fun for the price. 90% of London's Indian restaurants are Bangladeshi.

Liverpool Street and Aldgate East are the closest Tube stations.  The area is liveliest on Sundays, when the Spitalfield market is on.  During Linsey's visit, we wanted to blend new with old and spent a leisurely Saturday afternoon lawn bowling in Hyde Park.  Much like bocci ball, its a competitive but undeniably social sport. And especially when its a geriatric costume party.

The day was capped off with another English past time - a picnic. And lucky for us, there were no archaic open bottle restrictions to stop us from enjoying the warm weather and a glass of bubbly.