Hi Ho Bauer take 7 - Belgian Beer Tour - Part II, Brugge

Following our epic night of beer heaven in Antwerp, we hopped on the train to Bruges, which is about 2 hours from Antwerp, with a change in Ghent. A beautiful day in Bruges greeted us as we checked into our hotel, which was only a 3 minute walk from the main square. We stayed at Hotel Cordoeanier, which is around a hundred euros and has a nice bar that has a nice selection of beers. The morning after I had to work and the hotel owner was kind enough to let me work in the bar. After I was done he served me a rare Struise beer, which was yummy. 

After we checked in we took advantage of the beautiful weather and took a boat tour of the canals. The 45 minute tour takes a good stab at getting a whistle stop tour of the city under the belt. You can get on the boat at a few different places around the city. 

After the canal tour, we realised we were off track and needed to hit up a couple bars. 'T Brugs Beertje was the first great pub to quench our thirst. We again had four great beers, this post was meant to list all the beers at all the bars we went to but it got misplaced somewhere in our flat and tossed, apologies for that as this would've been a great post to share the great beer we sampled.

We then headed along the canal to Auberghe Vlissinghe, which is said to be the oldest pub in Bruges, since 1515. The main room of the pub resembles what I picture an old guild hall with great wood paneling, a warm fireplace (when lit) and old wooden tables.

Oh yeah, and lots of great old paintings.

Following the bar it was back along the canals to dinner. I don't remember the name mostly because it isn't too memorable. Yet again we didn't get a chance to ascend the old tower to see the city, which would've been nice. However, walking the canals and sitting in the square is really all one needs to do in Bruges.

Of course it is important to take in the old square at sunset, a majestic sight. If you have a chance, spend the night here as most of the day tourists stay in Brussels or elsewhere and the city is much more serene and beautiful at night.

Once the girls went to bed, we went to the final bar of the night, De Garre. Again, down a little alley, the pub also oozes character and is a must visit in the old town, capping a great trip to Bruges! Will we be back.....stay tuned.

Belgian Beer Tour - Part III, Westvleteren, St. Bernardus (B&B), Struise

"Life is a pilgrimage. The wise man does not rest by the roadside inns. He marches direct to the illimitable domain of eternal bliss, his ultimate destination"

 - Swami Sivananda                     

My modification to the Buddhist quote is the following:

"Life is a pilgrimage. The wise man does not rest by the roadside inns. He marches direct to the (abbey of Saint Sixtus of Westvleteren), his ultimate destination"

                                                                               - Lou

------

"What lies behind us and what lies ahead of us are tiny matters compared to what lives within us."

- Henry David Thoreau

Bow Wow's modification to Mr. Thoreau would be the following:

"What lies behind us and what lies ahead of us are tiny matters compared to what lives within that field of delicious hops."

                                                                                  - Dr. Bauer

The time has arrived; the off-track portion of our program where we pave new paths to new, rare beers. Yes its true, where we are going, not even Rick Steves could recommend a local restaurant.

Following our time in Bruges, we picked up our rental car, taking a quick hour drive to West Flanders, also home to some of the best breweries in the world, including, but surely not limited to De Dolle, De Struise Brouwers, Westvleteren and St. Bernardus. We were able to visit the last three and even stay at the last one on our excursion (entrance to St. Bernie's B&B pictured above).

We had agreed to meet Jacky at 3pm and as we had made it to the area much quicker than we expected, we stopped in Oostvleteren (just east of Westvleteren, naturally), to pay homage to De Struise Brouwers, whose beers I (ignorantly) knew little about before researching for this trip. Their secret is not safe with me!

The Brewery is an old schoolhouse and while Carlo, one of the owners of the brewery, wasn't around, the office manager was friendly and able to sell us a few beers to try out (p.s. the beer is awesome - not sure how readily available it is in the US).

Following this, we had an hour to go 10 km and between St. Bernardus and Struise was St. Sixtus. I will explain the story more below, but Saint Sixtus thankfully have opened a brewery cafe in the last several years that allows Pilgrim's to stop and sample the best rated beer in the world, Westvleteren 12.

Following the second pitstop we made it to the St. Bernardus B&B, which if not connected to the brewery would still be amazing as the bedrooms and common rooms are very carefully done. Debatably the best feature of the house however, is that guests have free reign to two fridges stocked with Bernie's, which we of course made quick use of (but not quick work of - Belgian's are strong)! Dat's a lotta Tripel's Bernie!

Following our welcome drink to wait out the rain, we grabbed the bikes that guests can use and biked to Watou, the nearby village, for dinner. Erin's bike didn't last long so she got a Dutch taxi ride (as I just now coined).

We arrived in Watou to witness a local version of lawnbowling, patanques or bocce ball. This variation involves rolling these rubber disks down the street. I gathered the objective is the same where you have to get closest to the little ball tossed first.

Paterstafel, our restaurant for the evening, was just opposite the game in the village square. Bauer and I went for steak for two marinated in a sauce whose primary ingredient was the Prior 8.

Following dinner, we meandered our way back along Trappistweg, taking the first left after the brewery. We stayed up for a few games of cards and drank a Bernie in its proper glass, emulating the monks who started the brewery. The history of the brewery and cheese production plant is found here and here. You can read that the beers of Westvleteren used to be brewed here and in 1992 when the Trappist beers all moved production to within the Monasteries, the beer's name was changed to St. Bernardus, after the Refuge established there following the anti clergy movement in France (during the French Revolution). Its good to see I have more hair and less belly than the Saint - for now :-)

The following morning after breakfast, the other unique feature of the B&B was unveiled. In the laundry room connected to the B&B kitchen was a door...but not just any door, a door leading directly to the bottling facility of the brewery, beginning the brewery!! TOTALLY COOL!!!

Jacky gave us a nice tour of the facility, which was during the full production process (only the second time I had a tour during production - Summit). I almost got plucked by a forklift when I was posing for a pic!

Following the tour, we took another bike ride through the country and its fields of hops, sadly returning the bikes to leave. We all agreed another night on Trappistenweg would have been wonderful.

We had a couple hours before our beer date with the monks, so we went to Ieper or Ypres. A beautiful town was subject massive destruction during world war one. The church was the only building resembling more than a pile of rubble, but following the war, nearly the entire town was rebuilt to its pre-war character.

The time had arrived, just an hour before our scheduled pick up and time for another lunch at the Westvleteren cafe In De Vrede, and two more 12's for me along with some of the Monk's famous cheese.

Upon leaving the cafe, we headed to the Monastery gates to see where and how we get our beer. Thankfully I have dealt with my fair share of Monk's at Saint John's, so this guy and I seemed to click. I have a suspicion he likes beer too. The length's we go to get our beer!

The background behind St. Sixtus and getting the highly rated and commercially untouchable beers of Westvletern is that you need to be able to interpret their beer schedule, you need luck to get through on the phone and you need to be able to visit Belgium the week after you reserve. As I mentioned, the beer is not available commercially anywhere except the cafe (legally), so you have to call the reservation line if you want to get beer. I called the reservation line, not knowing the pick up dates on the website correspond with the call in dates listed on the call in column (generally a week or so earlier). I was able to get through to reserve a case of the Westy 12s, but had to then retract as I was not going to be there during the schedule pick up dates (only two days available for pick up of this batch - and you though the soup Nazi was strict;-). Knowing that the call in dates correspond with the pick up dates, I was luckily able to get through the following week and reserved a crate of Westy 8's, not a bad consolation.

The pick up area, attached to the monastery, is ran by one of the monks. It is exactly like a bank drive through, except you leave with beer instead of a deposit slip. We were also lucky as they were selling mixed three packs for €8 each that allowed a sixer for each passenger in the car. Naturally we maxed out our order and ended up with two cases of Westies! We actually had two crates lined up for our reservation, but it was too much to haul back on the train through the chunnel.

What an amazing and truly unique beer experience that we will all never forget. And to top it off, the beer was as good as advertised, one of the best!

Now how do we get it back to the US?????

Hi Ho Bauer take 7 - Belgian Beer Tour - Antwerp and Brussels, Belgium

The keen observer (who must also be a beer Pilgrim) would quickly identify the beers in focus and perhaps the setting depicted in the blurry background, as that is how most remember it, blurry. The Kulminator was the second famous beer bar visited in one day....after visiting the Delirium Cafe earlier in the day. What is so monumental about this you ask? While one is in Brussels and one in Antwerp of course...

...and that my friends and family, sums up our whirlwind derby across Belgium over the late May bank holiday weekend. Admittedly, that is how far I am on these posts. Actually typing this after a long Friday nights' work....in Malta. The bad part about this is the workload lately; the nice part about this is that I am sitting on the balcony of my Maltese hotel (Hilton), catching a beautiful pinkish-orange sunset glistening off the still blue waters of the Mediterranean. Yes, there are worse places to be subjected to work.

The trip started on the last Friday of May in London. It started with a bang and a sad note alike, as it was our last meal with Stu and Kate before they returned home. A quite emotional meal as our time with them in London was terrific and we will be visiting them during the ski season in the Rockies! Kate and Stu were nice enough to share a huge credit at Redhook in Clerkenwell, which was amazing!! Us and the Bauer's are thankful for being fed so well! Did I mention that before the meal we tried my order of Abstrakt 6 Black IPA produced by Brewdog, one of my favorite UK breweries?

As the title suggests, Dr. Bauer and his counterpart, Drs. Bauer, have joined us once again. A historic 7th time. Not sure if they wanted to visit or if they saw that Betch had visited again and were determined to retain sole possession of top visitor of our 7.5 year adventure...that's once a year for those not counting (Borgie).

The next morning it was to the Eurostar, which departs from St. Pancras station and takes about 2.5 hours to make it to Brussels midi. Note when taking the Eurostar, it pays serious dividends to book well in advance as you can get to Paris or Brussels from London for about £150 return, and saving all the check-in and transportation to the airport time gives you extra time to do things like see one of the most overrated sites in the world, Manikin Pis.

Following a quick breakfast and a walk around the Grand Place, we were due to embark on a journey of epic proportions; (pro)portions of beer.

The natural first stop was the Delirium Cafe, which is one of the world's most revered bar, housing over 2000 beers on its menu that resembles the Saint John's bible. Delirium is well known in many circles, it was my third time there personally. But if you haven't heard of it, here's an intro...a three sheets salute to the Delirium Cafe!

I will summarise our beer selections at each bar in part II of the Belgian Beer tour. Let's just say it included the heaviest hitters in Belgium and a pilgrimage to taste (and pick up our order of:-) the highest rated beer in the world.

Following the Delirium Cafe it was off to Antwerp, an underdog of Belgium, but for those that appreciate the lords brew, Antwerp is no secret at all. Its a quick 40 minute train ride between the two so a day trip to one or the other is easily doable.

Antwerp has a beautiful city center, definitely outdoing Brussels in terms of charm, at least in my opinion. We arrived with a long walk by the Yiddish diamond shops and away from the center(re) to Rue de Plantin to the Plantin Hotel. Not central, but to our delight just a 2 minute walk from Cogels Osylei, perhaps the prettiest street in Belgium. We would save that for the following morning hangover stroll and breakfast. First, strolling the centre and pit stops at beer bars.

First stop Paeters Vaetje, an old pub with a big heart and a local following. It truly fit the bill as a classic Belgian beer bar and the selection of taps is great. Its on the same street as the cathedral so its a great touring pit stop. Check out the beer list yourself, but make sure you have a Kleenex for the drool, or at least have your Rochefort 10 catch it.

The next stop was Afspanning t' Waagstuk, another not-to-be-missed spot just north of the city center (5 minutes walk). This pub, also a winner and highly recommend, oozes with character and has a smaller, but well regarded beer list. The one downfall about this place was there was a German tour group here, but in another room so it was fine sitting at the bar. The worst part was that they all (maybe 35 of them) left over 1/2 their beer to the spoils. What a tragedy. If I was an employee there I would've finished 'em myself (although we almost did as customers:).

Third stop was to re-fuel with a nice dinner (preceded by a Leffe at a pub to watch the second half of the Champions League final). The educated scholar knows that Belgian beers with no food is a no-no if you want to remember the night and wake up with a clear head. We grabbed a really nice meal at a restaurant I don't remember - it's only my job to remember the pubs! The food was amazing though, and no it wasn't the booze that caused the memory loss (its my old age:).

Next bar was the Kulmination of our Antwerp beer tour (which was actually hijacked from a kind man at ratebeer - thanks!), the Kulminator bar. This bar is regarded by many as the best beer bar in the world.

Ask yourself, have you ever been to a bar with a bible-menu comparable to Delirium? The answer may be yes, but the follow up would be....does that menu list your favorite beers listed by year??!?!?!??

I encourage you to expand the above pic for a true appreciation of the beer menu, complete with years next to beers. You may be like, "what is this gimmicky bull-s*^t". Don't tell the owners or the patrons that, as this is a serious beer drinkers bar. I have never experienced anything like it and I consider myself a well traveled beer snob. We of course had a couple variations of De Struise that aren't readily available anywhere, let alone the 2004! It was an amazing and unique experience, Doc and I felt like kids in a massive candy store!

In hindsight we should've came here early, not last. I encourage all to do the same as the charm of the couple who own the bar can be much more appreciated with a thinner and more sober crowd.

The next morning was to get a nice breakfast along Cogels Osylei with a big cappuccino before a long walk along the beautiful street before making our way to the train to Bruges, where we would continue tackling the best beer Belgium has to offer!!!

Faster than a plane? A train.

As I soon as I settled on the title of this post about our inaugural journey aboard the Eurostar train the following CNN newsflash caught my eye - '18 killed when trains collide in Belgium'. Yikes! The Eurostar rail that connects the UK to mainland Europe via the chunnel is not without criticism - it's unreliable, expensive and breaks down often.  This year in particular it has received more than its fair share of blows.  From today's crash to the complete catastrophe at Christmas when the busiest routes were cancelled, stranding holiday-goers. So I was somewhat apprehensive about the idea of a recent last-minute train ride from London to Brussels.

Things didn't start out well. I forgot my passport. Luckily, when you miss a train there are usually several others waiting to depart. So post-panic, I found the Eurostar service to be smooth and efficient. The way traveling ought to be with no worries about weighing your bag to make sure it is under 20 kilos or fussing about the amount of pint-size liquids that can be crammed into a Ziploc.  Better yet, rather than spending an hour on the Tube or praying in the back of a taxi that traffic will subside, I remained cool, calm and collected.  No annoying queues or first-time travelers trying to navigate security. London's St. Pancras station is also possibly the nicest train station I have been in, rivaling the sleek interiors and clean vibe found in the Reykjavik airport.  I arrived 30 minutes before my train and got on without a hitch, enough said.

Let me caveat the following trip to Brussels by saying we have been to Brussels.  We found amazing places to eat and with his Belgium beer obsession, Lou is like a dowsing rod (a.k.a water witching) to the best watering holes in town.  So we basically did the same trip  all over again plus a few wonderful local places that Tanya, our college friend and favourite expat, introduced to our repertoire.

Starting with Antoine, which is quite possibly the best frites shop in Brussels. Double-dipped like a chocolate cone, the takeaway fries are crispy, golden and gorgeous, accompanied by fixings from curry mustard to housemade ketchup.  The local pubs even let you bring your "little" cone of frites inside, happy to help you wash it down with a pint of beer.  

Grande Place is truly one of the most beautiful squares in all of Europe (see first photo). We could sit at a cafe all day and just enjoy the view.  But we are doers and couldn't bare to while away an afternoon without taking in a new sight or two.  So we jumped on a local train to Bruges.   A return ticket was less than 20EUR and the trains run every hour, perfect for a quick getaway. We spent the day walking around the cities canals and side streets, perusing an amazing local market and enjoyed the solitude (and warmth) of the small stone chapel underneath the Basilica of the Holy Blood. After seeing the movie Bruges, we had aimed to climb the 336 steps to the top of the belfry tower, but we were inpatient to see as much of the city as possible.  For those visiting Bruges, definitely visit the tour first thing in the morning or expect to wait at least and hour in line.  We visited in January so I can only imagine the wait in the summer.

After a very average lunch of very average mussels off the main square, we set out to find the oldest pub in Bruges, the Vlissinghe tavern, dating from 1515.  It was charming and the perfect place to while away a chilly Saturday afternoon.  It also received top marks for having a shelf behind the bar filled with decks of cards, which we originally mistook for cartons of old cigarettes.  

We left Bruges at about 5:30 and arrived back to Brussels around 7pm in time for a few Belgians at Delirium Cafe.  This is quite possibly the holy mecca of beer drinking.  With over 2,000 bottles and 12 on tap, most of which you have never heard of, Delirium is chaotic and fun, even if a bit touristy.  It is also below ground so it is easy to while away a whole afternoon here without noticing.   

Post-delirium (which is appropriately titled) we walked across the city to Au Vieux Bruxelles, one of our favourite restaurants in Europe.  Our dinner marked the second time in all of our travels that we have ate at the same restaurant twice (the first being Badia Coltibuono in Tuscany) - it is that good.

We spent Sunday visiting my favourite chocolatier Pierre Marcolini, picking up boxes of gifts (which I conveniently left in a London taxi) and sampling a range of flavourful oddities from saffron and dark chocolate to cardamam and chilli.  Luckily, I found the lone importer in the UK and hope to have replacement Valentine's out soon!

From there, we explored a busy antiques market and grabbed a bite at the original Pain de Quotidian and then headed to the train station - with 30 minutes to spare.