Thursday, January 01, 2009

The X-Mas Markets of Europe - Part Three - Munich & Regensburg

We had been looking forward to our trip to Bavaria for so many months and were relieved when our Christmas holiday finally arrived on December 19th.  It was the longest holiday during our time in Europe and it came and went quickly along with the rest of 2008. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to All! What was planned as the ultimate Xmas market and beer tour of Bavaria didn't quite turn out as planned, as Erin and I both got pretty sick in Munich, eventually getting diagnosed with Bronchitis by none other than Dr. Beer in Regensburg 5 days into the trip.

The trip began by checking into our Pension and picking up a glass of mulled wine on the way to dinner at Anchens Am Dom, a famous brewery/monastery that has a resturant in Munich, an easy alternative to making the pilgrimage to the mountain top town. Good food, amazing beer. The next morning it was off to the xmas market...we were hoping for snow in Munich, to unfortunately find cold rain and wind....not good for Erin who at this point was getting pretty sick, but being a great sport! The main Munich market in Marienplatz was great, filled with exclusively christmas ornaments and decorations; we quickly found out where all our Christmas traditions originated in Minnesota. After getting a couple ornaments and meeting Strauss, who planned two nights in Munich on his way to Egypt for the holiday, we had a lunch of soup and a beer (for me), tea for Erin, then made our way to Munich's Residenz, where the royal family lived for hundreds of years dating to the 1508, with the building dating back to 1385. We checked out another Christmas market in the courtyard of the Residenz and had a potato latkes in honor of Strauss, as he humored us by tagging along at all the Christmas markets. That night we ate at Paulaner's big beer hall/eatery and had a beer at Augustiner Keller in the basement (like 60 feet below ground) brewery. Erin was a tropper as she was at the height of her illness while we had a beer here (and as I began to deteriorate).
The following day we wandered around again, but only in the morning to get drugs and then it was back to bed until 3:30 for Erin and I. However, we managed to make it to the Hofbrahaus for a couple beers (even though I was sick, I couldn't pass up un mas after an initial tea). On the way to dinner, we stumbled upon yet another seriously cute xmas market that was exclusively for nativity purchases (along with the usual gluwein and pretzels that everyone was eating and drinking). Munich was great despite not being able to do the complete beer hall experience....but to our credit we made it to the Hofbrahaus, an Ayinger, an Augustiner, a Paulaner, and the Anchen's beer halls; not a bad showing. We were able to parttake in the amazing Christmas markets though!!

The next day after a slight complication with our rental, we departed from Munich airport to Regensburg via Landshut. Landshut was a picturesque town straight out of a fairy-tale, with pastel medieval buildings surrounding cobblestone streets. We made a quick tour through town and then arrived in Regensburg to an even more picturesque town, one of the coolest and most historic we have experienced in our time here, complete with colorful buildings and several Christmas markets.
We checked into our hotel and grabbed a tea and set out to check out the markets. It was such a great vibe with all the locals having gluwine and chestnuts beneath the medieval church. We were very sad to not parttake in the banter:-(.

We stayed at the Petit Orphee hotel, right in the center of town. It was only €100 a night but included gourmet breakfast and wine and water in the room upon arrival. It should be the only option when considering accommodation in Regensburg. That night we were fortunate to get a reservation at the restaurant managed by the hotel, also the best restaurant in town. It was bistro-french and didn't disappoint.
After dinner, we wandered around town some more and to another cute market that was focused more on arts and crafts, kids stuff, and music. There was a cute merry-go-round made of wood that was just like the one we say in Riga last year. There was also mini-bowling for the little ones. The next morning we woke up to a great view, had breakfast, and then made it to a hospital in the old town, seeing Dr. Beer and getting some much needed meds. Following the hospital, we wandered around the markets some more and to some shops.
We went to a home store and found Erin's Christmas present, which was wrapped in the store and hauled to the post-office. As you can see below, it was too big to put in an envelope, so we had to send the package to Ireland to be able to ship it home!

We eventually made it out of Regensburg and it was across the border to Salzburg for one last market and our Christmas celebration!

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

The X-Mas Markets of Europe - Part Two

Last weekend it was off to Budapest, to experience another weekend of the Christmas spirit with the locals of the city. We had a Saturday afternoon flight and arrived at about 8pm for a 24 hour sprint through the city! We don't really mind the quick weekend as we really just walk around the historic district and the christmas markets and 1-1.5 days is all we need!

We stayed at one of the first easyHotels, a super-efficient room that looks like the inside of their airplanes. It is all we needed with a really comfy bed for €30.
That first night, we wandered around the town and market, took some pics, had some mulled wine, and ate at a winery who recently opened a cool cellar restaurant in the city.
The markets were very local and we were some of only a handful of american's we saw in the market, so it was cool to get the local flavor. Also, compared to Prague's slightly commercial market, the goods sold here were all certified by a board for handcraft and locally made; so we naturally picked up a few trinkets for our place.
The next morning we walked to the Buda side of the river up to the castle, visited the museum, and walked back to the market. It was a very pleasant day.

After visiting the market again, we learned the airport was on strike and we were worried about our flight and getting to work the next morning. We were a bit nervous that we'd miss the week of work if the airport was closed, but we found out we were okay, so went back and enjoyed some more mulled wine to stay warm! It was another great weekend, but if we had to choose again, it would be an easy nod to Prague, whose history, colorful buildings and architecture, and cheaper prices take the cake! Off to Munich tomorrow! Yippee!!!

Merry christmas everybody! We miss you!

Tuesday, December 09, 2008

The X-Mas Markets of Europe - Part One

Merry Christmas to all!!!!
Last weekend, Erin and I started a whirlwind adventure that will span the next several weeks celebrating christmas, probably the longest christmas celebration we'll ever have...you just have to seize the opportunity. Unfortunately, the weekdays are for work (myself trekking back and forth from Galway), while the weekends are for travel! Don't feel too bad though....I know you don't.
This past weekend we visited Prague on one of our now-infamous Saturday-Sunday trips that cost the same as a weekend on the town in Dublin. I had visited Prague with Jordan, Dann, and Dylan while traveling after our french program, but those were hazy college days (dare I say 7 years ago), so this would be a bit more cultural. And no better way to experience culture of a city than experiencing the christmas markets.
We arrived at about 11am on Saturday and hit the markets, where there are four very central markets in Prague's old town (creeping into the new town). We walked around with our first glass of mulled wine and mead checking out the food and trinkets for sale. The square was absolutely beautiful and we did a great job soaking up the atmosphere. The stalls themselves were a bit commerical, but it didn't deter from the ambiance. There is a massive tree in the main square and a stage where carolers from all over the country would come and sing in 30 minute intervals. It was very cool to hear the Czech christmas songs (many like ours just translated, many in english too:) The best pics we took were on the first night, when we went to the top of the old town tower and took pics of the market from above (like in the first pic). During the day, we stumbled upon a famous bar that has its own microbrewery and produces one of the world stongest beers at 12.6% (they say the strongest, but I didn't want to disappoint any other brewers reading this out there). U Medivicku (sp) is the name and the pub was founded in the 1400's....it was a really cool place with great beer. Erin had a cult favorite called Oldgott. We then wandered across the Charles bridge for a view of one of the coolest sights in Europe.Bridge at night with Prague Castle in the background.
The next morning I got up early while Erin slept and took a few shots of the bridge pre-tourist craziness. Erin and I then went to the castle and toured it, as well as St. Vitnus cathedral, an impressive church that dates back to the early middle ages, with the current structure dating to the 1400's. After wandering around Mila Strana (sp) and getting lunch at an amazing restaurant called Bar Bar, we were back to the christmas markets for some treats before heading home.

Only 4 days till Budapest!!!...and 10 till Munich/Austria/Kitzbuhel!!!!

Monday, December 01, 2008

Hop-Scotch Across the Atlantic

It has been a whirl wind month for us with trips back and forth across the Atlantic. I flew to DC for work for a few days and was lucky to be able to spend some time in Clarendon catching up with friends. Tear. Tear. Then the following week it was on a plane to MN. Lou was in Galway for a week, Dallas and MN for two and then back to Galway for another week.

So while we have no European adventures to report of late (stay-tuned December is jam-packed), we have had a great time seeing old friends, visiting family and exploring Dublin. I flew into Minneapolis and headed up north with Jamie and her boyfriend and was surprised to find Linsey had flown in from Palo Alto for the weekend. We celebrated my grandparent's 50th wedding anniversary and took it easy, eating, sitting in front of the fireplace and catching up. Then, my mom and I went to Minneapolis for a night to visit new babies in the family and do drive-by house hunting.

Lou and I have decided that instead of dealing with the upkeep of a dog when we move back to MN next summer, we are going to live close enough to Meaghan and Ryan so that we can just borrow Bella when we want to go for a walk.

Lou joined me in Minneapolis for the weekend and we had nice family feast at Alissa and Jeremy's house. We threw a few steaks on the grill (brrr.....why do Minnesotan's love to grill even in the winter?) and Jeremy made a nice little coq au vin. It was Lou's grandparent's anniversary so they came over to celebrate along with David, Lisa and Jake, and Anne and Doug. It was great to see all of them as it had been over a year.
We both had to return to Ireland just a few days shy of Thanksgiving. Last year, we were distraught to find out that marshmellows, turkey and pumpkin pie are hard to come by in Dublin. Thanksgiving just wasn't the same without eating yourself into a food coma. So this year we swore we were not going to make the same mistake, talking to our families via long distance and drooling at the thought of football and leftovers. So I filled a suitcase with Thanksgiving goods from Trader Joe's, we special ordered a turkey and cooked a feast with our American friends Katie and Rob, and Katie and Pierre.
Lou carved the bird.

The gang.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Fall Has Arrived

Fall in Dublin has arrived, that means the days are shorter, the winds stronger, the leaves changing, work picking up, we have to occasionally turn on the heater. We haven't been away for a few weeks and have spent our afternoons on the weekend just hanging out and walking around. The traveling will soon pick up as December rolls around, but in the meantime, we are trying to explore Dublin as much as we can.
With Erin gone this weekend, Eoin, Cormac and myself went down to Sandycove and went for an October 26 dip in the Irish Sea. It was really cold at first, but once your body numbs from the coldness, it doesn't feel as bad. It was definitely the coldest water I have swam in. When living in Dublin, a dip in the Irish Sea is a must! BRRRR!!

Sunday, October 12, 2008

The European Club

Over the summer, I have played a lot less golf than I envisioned, mostly because of the over-priced green fees and the inaccessability to any courses while not having a car. However, David, Joe, and myself got a 4 round ticket at the European club, a links course on the Irish sea. It is heavily discounted on a per-round basis from the €180 you'd pay for a single round, so we went for it.
Tiger Woods holds the course record at a 67, to give you an idea of the difficulty, and Paddy Harrington (who won two majors this summer) won the Irish PGA championship at a -1 for the three round tourney. We played the following day from the same tees as the Irish pros, which was actually my best of the four rounds, I think I shot a 93.
It is a beautiful course about 45 minutes south of Dublin in Britta's Bay in Wicklow. Probably the most beautiful setting combined with the most difficult course I have played. The two times I broke 100 (out of four) would usually drive me to put (slam) down the clubs, but in this case, it just caused me to shake my head with a smile. The European club got the best of me alright, with its massive pot bunkers lined with railroad ties that invade the narrow fairways, which is a better option that the knee high thickets that define the rough...but they were four unforgettable rounds!